Interlock seatpost integrated bicycle lock (2)

From Kickstarter to a Taipei D&I Gold award winner, Interlock is a smart product that combines a standard seat post with a bicycle lock. Now instead of carrying your lock on your frame, around your bars, or in a back pack, the lock stashes inside the post for a clean, extremely convenient locking option. Originally offered in 25.4 and 27.2mm diameters, a third 31.6mm size is being added, and they all retail for $60 – not much more than the cost of a seat post and a lock.

After meeting Adrian from Interlock in Taipei, we got a sample to try out – check out our first impressions next…

Interlock seatpost integrated bicycle lock (1)

Built with a forged then post machined head, the Interlock is a friction fit into the seatpost with the lock cable nestled inside the seat tube. The lock itself seems like a quality unit with the added bonus of not having to leave the key in after it is unlocked. Unlock it, remove the key, and the lock snaps shut securely. The entire post and lock assembly weighs 620g and is available in black or silver.

Interlock in Use

Yes, there are many locks on the market that offer improved security, but the point of the Interlock is convenience. You can always combine the Interlock with an additional U-lock for added security, but as it is the Interlock is more than enough for many locations. By routing the cable through the frame and the wheel (or both wheels if QR), you can lock up the post, frame, and wheels, while the lock end is easy enough to put through the saddle rails if you are concerned about the seat getting stolen.

Even though the lock is basically just a press fit into the post, first rides have been silent – no rattling of any sort. This, and the potential for the lock to pop out of the post were my only concerns but the Interlock seems to have addressed those issues well. So, the post works well as a post and a lock, but there are a few things to consider. You may need to change your water bottle bolts on the seat tube as mine were too long and prevented the lock from dropping down into the frame. On a similar note, I’d imagine that there will be frames that the post or lock cable is too long. Technically you could figure out a way to cut the post down, but there is no way to shorten the lock cable. This would really only apply to very small bikes, but it’s something to consider. You obviously can’t slam the post either, so you need about 3 inches of exposed post for it to work. Some saddle bags may interfere with the lock as well.

On my bike, I love it. It’s probably more lock than I really need around here especially for the beater, but you can’t beat the convenience. The lock is easy to use, easy to store, and makes riding to the store, post office, library, whatever that much easier. This isn’t a product you’ll see on expensive road bikes, but for commuters or townies it’s an awesome addition.

taispons taipei bike show coverage 2014


  1. I live in a mid-size city that has low crime and even this wouldn’t keep your bike safe around here. A simple cable cutter would render this useless. U-Locks are the only way to go. U-Locks may be a little heavier to lug around, but atleast you wouldn’t come out of the coffee shop to find your cable lock cut and end up having to walk home.

  2. Or mount a Tubus folding lock to the frame. Very convienent and an order of magnitude more secure. It’s like people are trying to deliberately be stupid here; I could cut that cable with pair of sissors! When Kickstarter becomes an intelligence test…

  3. This product definitely has a purpose. It’s a lot easier and lighter to transport than a bulky U lock and looks 1000 times better with it mostly concealed. Plus, it’s better than nothing at all, even if it won’t be the most difficult solution for hardcore thieves to bypass. As a lock to be used to run into the coffee shop or beer shop and be back out to your bike in 5-10 mins, it fits the bill. To use it to lock your bike up outside the welfare office in skidsville, look at something else.

  4. I would like to see a video of Rider X trying to cut the lock with a pair of sissors, can we have a follow up review please?

    Looks like a decent way to keep the honest man honest. Even with the best U-Lock, if a real thief wants your bike they will get it.

  5. Seems like a nice clean compact solution. ANY lock is just a deterent. I’d only use ANY lock to secure a bike I wouldn’t be too sad to lose. ANY lock can be cut in about a miniute with a cordless grinder with a new disk.

  6. I dig it for what it is. It’s like a T-20 torn screwdriver, a specific tool for a specific job. It’s not a hammer, but it’s not meant to be one.

    As soon as say the picture, before I read a word of the article I had a rather pointed “why-didn’t-I-think-of-that” moment.

    Good product for bike tourists as well. Not terribly expensive, not terribly heavy, doesn’t take much space on your bike. So yeah, I dig it.

  7. How long is the cable in these locks? Does it really have enough cable to lock both wheels and frame to solid obstacle without removing the wheels? The lenght is not mentioned even on their own website…

  8. Hey Rolling Resistance – the cables are 90cm long – 2x45cm. Equals 35 inches total. Not long enough to get the front wheel when it’s on the bike, but it’s long enough to go through the rear wheel, frame, and around a post/bike rack.

  9. I’ve got mine and it’s actually amazing. Living in Melbourne, Australia, it’s almost impossible to have a bike stolen with a lock like this. Great idea, great execution, made my riding so much more convenient (god, I hated that U-Lock).

  10. Gus,

    The “give me convenience or give me death” approach to bike security is not ideal. I’m in Melbourne too so either you don’t realise how easy it is to cut that lock or you don’t have a bike you could easily replace if stolen. It is built to last minutes while you duck into Dan Murphys etc. Not a bad thing but it has it’s place.

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