CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (6)

It’s sort of hard to believe that Chris King hasn’t had a Centerlock hub option before, but the brand has been historically slow to adopt new “standards.” The policy seems to have worked out well given their 39 year history (we’re told to expect some exciting things for their 40th anniversary). To be a Chris King product it has to be up to the precise standards and tolerances consumers have come to expect, but it also has to be something with a large enough demand. Likely driven by the influx of road and cross disc brakes and the use of Shimano’s top end Centerlock rotors, the wait for a Chris King Centerlock hub is almost over.

As soon as it is available, it will also be shipping in that new turquoise color…

CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (22)

CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (9)

Offered throughout the whole product range, turquoise is back. We are told that the production color won’t differ much from that above, which to our eyes skews a bit more to the blue end of the spectrum than the turquoise, but either way it looks good. We’re told the Centerlock hubs should be shipping in the spring.

Along with the Centerlock hubs, Chris King this time will be moving quickly and will also be offering Boost 110 and 148 hubs. We’re told that Boost hubs will be available in both 6 bolt and Centerlock options with 28 or 32 spoke drillings. Claimed weights range from 162-166g for the front and 320-352g for the rear depending on the option.

CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (12)

CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (17) CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (18)

Other notable launches that we’ve covered previously include the new R45d hub for 12x100mm thru axle front spacing, as well as the ISO SS rear hub for 142×12 axles. R45d hubs will be available in 24, 28, and 32 spoke drillings with a claimed weight of 159-163g (ceramic, steel).

CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (24) CHRIS KING blue teal centerlock (23)

In smaller news, Cielo stems will now be offered as short as 50 and 70 mm. The stems will use a 1 1/8″ steerer and 0° angles only and come with a painted body in one of 13 colors, and an anodized face plate.


  1. Can you convert older iso small diameter hubs to boost? I’m sure You’d need to re-dish an older front wheel to get it to work.

  2. Yeah, that ain’t turquoise. It’s light blue. Absolutely purty and I want some of those centerlock hubs with it, but it’s not turquoise.

  3. I love all things Chris King, but those rear hubs – the sound drives me crazy. Are they still as intensely irritating as a decade ago or have they found a way to damp that down?

  4. COLOR: Thats blue. Its like the 90’s all over again. I had annodized blue and purple all over my old Gary Fisher MTB.

    NOISE: Some (like me) consider it music to my ears. I love the sounds of the “buzz”. you can put grease in the ring gear area and make it a bit quieter. Perhaps you are not the target audience though….

    STEMS: For Chris’s sake already. Just CNC machine a beautiful complete stem for us mountain bikers. No more of this TIG welded Cro-mo road/CX-only stuff. I know you can do it Mr. King. I would love to swap out my 50mm Race Face Atlas for pretty Chris King unit. When partnered with a CK headset, you would own the head tube area!
    But Thomson is some stiff competition… maybe that is why you hesitate.

    Thanks for making awesome components CK!

  5. Noticed they got a new website. It is probably made by some employees son or some friend, cant believe a company in the high end segment does not invest in a proper professional website, it is not 1997 anymore.

  6. @dyingtoknow

    there’s no reason to increase your OLD to 110/148 unless you get a new hubshell. The entire point of the wider axles is to allow better triangulation.

  7. Woohoo! No longer a reason to buy DTSwiss with their “summer only” bearing seals just to get centerlock for my road and gravel bikes. The rest of my 6 bolt ISO and R45 fleet will be jealous. And my 240s will be sad when they are replaced.

  8. @Eric Hansen
    The reason would be to save myself the cost/ trouble of lacing a new wheel when I buy a new fork.

    In the 5+ years of owning Chris King hubs (R45 and Iso small diameter) it’s become pretty clear how much of a PITA it is to try and keep the hubs relevant with changing “standards”. IE. If I want to run an 11 speed cassette on the R45 I need to buy a new axle and free hub body, swap the bearing out of the old one and re-dish the wheel. And all that for the low low price of 300+ dollars!

    Next time I’ll buy I9 or DT.

  9. Damn it. Just built a brand new set of CK hubs and would have definitely gotten Centerlock versions had they been available. Those top end Shimano SRT99 rotors are the very nice!
    The buzz dies down after you ride the wheels a while. I personally love it. Sort of like the dry clutch in a Ducati. Annoying at first , but it grows on you. Mechanical sounds like that sound like precision.

  10. You can’t just add spacers to non-boost stuff to make it boost compatible. It would put the rotor in the wrong place, since the rotor mount moved out along with the flanges

  11. Ive had a couple of pairs of CK hubs and both times regretted it after riding for bit.

    The R45 freehub can slip causing painful crashes.
    The Classic freehub is sticky as and causes chain lag and is also dangerous.

    CK headsets are legit but the hubs are really not worth the money. I have DT 240 and they cream all over the CK hub product.

    I also have some 60$ wheels that came on a $500 bike that are stronger and safer hubs than my CK. They don’t have the cool anodizing color or nice buzz sound though.

    Why don’t CK just copy DT swiss hubs? They obviously work best and don’t require such regular maintenance or have any danger issues.

  12. Durianrider… You’re clearly misinformed on how King hubs work and are just spreading miss-information…

    King hubs already have a ring drive that is very similar to DT Swiss star ratchets. The difference is that the King ring drive is larger, has more teeth, and gets tighter as you pedal. Kings don’t slip from pedaling unless the ring drive is broken or damaged. DT 240s nearly almost as much as King hubs but come with 18t ratchets vs 45 or 72.

    DT hubs and King hubs essentially function the same way already…

  13. Durianrider, you are doing something wrong. Or my 3 sets of king hubs are the exception. They are expensive, and they are noisy, and they work really really well and last forever.

  14. @dyingtoknow – In the front, theoretically; in the back, no. The problem is that the wider hub doesn’t just increase the distance between flanges; it also pushes the cassette and disc rotors further outboard of the bike’s centerline. While custom endcaps could increase the OLD to fit in the dropouts, they would leave the cassette and rotors three millimeters too far inboard to properly interact with the calipers and derailleur.

    Here’s the “theoretical” part – it could be possible to space the front and rear rotors out three millimeters from their mounts (at least for six-bolt), but putting any kind of spacer between the hub and your braking surface seems unwise to say the least. Shear forces. Doing that on the back hub would be pretty useless in any case, as I can’t see how to space the cassette out. Maybe you could push the derailleur inboard with a custom hanger, though.

  15. @Bluefire: you could go 6mm out with the rotor and leave the cassette as it is. This would require redishing and some sort of a custom 6mm adapter for the rotor.

  16. @Pfs- Just because your hubs work fine doesn’t mean others must be doing something wrong. I have seen a lot of people over the years (myself included) get hypnotized by King’s marketing and ignore that their rear hubs either have play or drag. Yes, even after the break-in period, and after fastidiously following the instructions. I have had three King rear hubs, and while I like the fast engagement and low weight, I did not like the play they had. I know even shop mechanics who ride around on loose King rear hubs- and then swear by them anyway.
    King’s front hubs, headsets, and bottom brackets are good- but then, most front hubs, headsets, and bottom brackets are good.
    Anyways, it’s nice King is going to Centerlock.

  17. I 3rd that King rear hubs are not clearly “the best” as fanboys would have you believe. I don’t have any experience with the R45, and the slippage issue Durianrider mentioned, but I have seen the constant loosening, and draggy freehub that causes slack on the top run of chain on their MTB hubs. This was several years back, so maybe they have improved them since, but I’ll just say that I was disappointed, given my experience with their headsets and their reputation for not introducing product prematurely, that 3 experienced mechanics could collectively not remedy the situation.

    And while I am in complaining mode, Kings old o-ring equipped aheadset top cone was crap. They should have sprung for the licensing fee for the dia-comp wedge like everyone else did.

  18. I’ve heard but not seen that whaling down on the QR allows you to have no drag and no play at the same time. I even had a bolt-on hub, though, and even with the increased torque possible there, it sucked. It also used a weird English-sized bolt for the locking collar, and using a nearly correct metric size almost rounded it out.

  19. Will the centerlock be available for the R45 hubs?
    Chris King has only been showing it on there mountain hubs and they have not said if it will be for the R45 also.

  20. Funny. I watched my teammate tighten up his Chris King hub in the parking lot before our race today. He had to do it before the last race, too.

    Meanwhile, my DT 240s keep on tickin’.

  21. @Msinformation- DT hubs now come with 36t ratchets. 36t ratchets are also available as a retrofit for older hubs. Durianrider exaggerated, though, and also did not back up his claims about slippage in rear hubs. I never experienced slippage with King rear hubs, and have not heard of anyone else having this problem until now. (Although I won’t count his “testimony”- he doesn’t say who experienced slippage, in fact he doesn’t even say HE has.) King- light, fast engagement, reliable, expensive, and… WOBBLY. That’s my take from years of experience.

  22. Cris King hubs are only “fake durable”. I’ve got roughly 40,000 miles on two sets(thankfully they aren’t in my possession anymore). They’re durable and last forever if you don’t use them, or if you’re constantly tightening them. I had to tighten mine every 200-300 miles. My hope hubs have been even more durable, higher mileage(around 50k), still running strong after replacing bearings once. White Industries hubs come loose from time to time but they last way longer before needing tightened, weigh less, cost less…well, once you replace the crap bearings they come with

  23. My CK bearings were loose and my freehub tight at the beginning of last CX season so I pulled the freehub and bearing seals, cleaned, regreased, and set the bearing clearance. They run perfectly now after a full muddy NW race season.

  24. @Cheese- grab your rear tire with your hand pull it hard laterally. If there truly is no play in it, and your chain does not sag at all when you backpedal in any gear, then you are the first person I have heard of who to whose King rear hubs both of those things apply.

  25. Started building with I9 and recently Onyx hubs for MTN after I had 3 sets (1 personal) of 142x12mm Iso hubs refuse to stay adjusted. Unacceptable for that amount of money. That is my ONLY gripe, but they are no longer head-and-shoulders above the other options.

  26. always wanted to back Kings and glad to see they finally paid for CL, but on 3 separate wheelsets over 15 years (classic, r45, ISO), ive decided they’re not for me. Too much drag, even after hundreds of hours and after you flush out the grease and use oil. I also cant get behind a product that requires a $180 toolset to rebuild it, and even worse, its not interchangeable between hubs (ISO and r45 need seperate $180 toolsets). BTW, if yours keep coming loose, just put a dab of 242 on the locking ring threads and the pinch bolt.

    My 240s were buttery smooth on day 1 and have stayed that way for the last year. Sorry CK, I wanted to roll them, but at the end of the day if it doesnt work, it doesnt work.

  27. @Will- but those are kind of heavy, right? Also, no Centerlock and no Boost so far. Apart from weight, those things might change, though, and they are intriguing…

  28. I take it back! Onyx offers Centerlock and Boost hubs, I wrote to them and they messaged me back in short order. Still not sure about the weight…

  29. I have had 3 set of kings and been very happy with them. Recently switched out the DT swiss on my rear for kings. The dtswiss pulled apart on themselves every 500 miles and i crushed the ring. Also the low tooth count is bs.

    I have just noticed with my current rear hub it is getting some play after a few rides, tightening seems to take care of it, hope once i break it in i won’t have to mess with it much. I ride a lot and am not a mait guy.

  30. @TIM A lot of DT based wheelsets come with the 36t or 54t ratchets but the vanilla hubs come with 18t ratchets. Your opinion is obviously biased. That’s OK though. You seem like the guy who always has a complaint about a product, even ones you don’t use.

    @redline9k The King service tools are NOT required for annual/regular maintenance. This is more commonly repeated miss-information.

    The only people I’ve ever heard say Kings have too much drag are on the internet and those people aren’t riding King and many never have. Just repeating Joe Cool who happens to ride and love 240s. For every person that claims Kings have too much drag, I can find someone claiming to have broken and chipped DT ratchets. I’ll start with me. Roval carbon with a 36t star ratchet failed and before you say I should have used X oil or did Y for x miles, isn’t that just about the same as having to maybe adjust a King hub once in a while? Is there any product without upkeep of any kind?

    The Onyx hubs are very cool too. They also cost even more than the King hubs do and weigh more. It’s as if there are compromises to every design…

  31. @Ms. Information- Your name makes clear that you’re a troll. Either that or you’re a person who really does ignore what people actually write.

  32. @Tim I read your comments. Aftermarket DT hubs don’t include 36t ratchets. Bontrager, Roval etc. wheels that use DT Ratchet systems may include 36t or 54t ratchets. They certainly are retrofit-able to any Star Ratchet hubs as I know. I have used all three sizes in 340s, 350s, 240s, Bontrager 240s, and Roval 350s. The stock 36t in my Roval hub failed immediately.

    Though since you are the one championing DT hubs in the comments section about Kings, I’d say I’m the one currently feeding the Troll… I’ve had two sets of ISO disc Kings and neither had play issues. Drag? Not really, but they do need some adjustment from time to time. I’m OK with that because engagement and longevity is why I bought them. The compromise is that they need adjusting from time to time.

    DTs are great. Need no adjusting and roll well. Good thing it’s really simple to take apart and replace the bearings (with the star ratchet ring removal tool) because you will have to replace them and you do need to keep the 36t and 54t ratchets pretty clean or they can and will slip. Compromises.. What do you value most?

  33. @Ms. Information- thanks for the info on the number of teeth in DT’s ratchets; I generally thought newer hubs included 36 or 54 tooth ones out of the box. I also never advocated DT products I simply (mis-)stated that they had 36t ratchets. In fact, I only mentioned DT once; I don’t know where you got the idea I am promoting them.
    Saying that I am the guy who complains about all products is quite a big extrapolation, and quite incorrect, to boot. The Fox fork I’ve had since 2002, the Suntour XC Pro shifters I’ve ridden since 1995 or so, the boring XT stuff that’s all over my bike, the Time ATAC pedals. All good stuff.
    If someone says their King rear hubs work fine and aren’t loose and don’t have any drag, I won’t discount their experience, you included. This is pretty much the opposite of what you said to Durianrider, who had issues with his King rear hubs and whom you subsequently accused of spreading “miss-information” (wrong spelling, and leading further credence to my theory you’re trolling here). But in my experience and that of several other posters, there is no way to get rid of drag and have no play at the same time. I’m talking not about occasional re-adjustments, I am talking about a chronic problem. At all times (before and after the break-in period, and with various lubes inside) either my hubs were too tight and had no play, or had some play and no drag. Several other commenters said the same thing. If you want to call someone’s experience mis(s-)information, it’s your prerogative.

  34. What makes you an authority on King hubs? If you even remotely understood how the ring drive works you would understand how Durianrider is making it up. Kings CAN’T slip by design. If they do slip it’s because the teeth on the ring drive are destroyed. This doesn’t happen from them being slightly too loose or too tight.

    You have no credence or authority on this issue because you too are spreading rumor and misinformation. You didn’t join this discussion for any reason but to bash king products. How is that anything BUT trolling?

  35. I like some King products. The King front hub I have is age-old and has never had anything wrong with it. Ditto for the King headsets I have used. Great products. I should have been more positive and framed my comments in that larger context. Each of us has his own opinion, let’s leave it at that.

  36. The center lock is the only way to use the new XTR brake rotors so it just makes sense for CK to offer this again. It took them a while to make the 142×12 SS hub but it’s CK they take time to make it right.

  37. I have both CK ISO’s and 240s, and I think they’re both great. Functionally, in my opinion, they’re both equalled. Fashionably, King hubs have an edge. However, if I have to go for lightness, I’d choose 240’s. By the way, does anyone know if DT Swiss will make a 240 Boost hub soon?

  38. King rear hubs suck. And the posters above who claimed the hubs either have drag and no play or roll smoothened have play are 100% spot on. You can babble the King marketing hype till the cows come home, and at the end of the day I’ll gladly ride any other number of hubs other than King including I9, DT, and White Industries 7 days a week. King = silly overpriced and the play/drag issues have never been resolved despite all the cheerleader hype.

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