The Robert Axle Project has a new light weight option if you’re looking for replacement thru axles. Called the Lightning Bolt-On, the axles aren’t meant to carry a trailer. Instead, they’re simply meant to offer a light weight option instead of the quick release axles that probably came stock. But the axles also have a little trick up their sleeve. Thanks to a partnership with Hexlox, the axles are compatible with the minuscule locking plugs. Combined with the tapered shape of the thru axle head, it should make the axle fairly theft resistant if you’re worried about losing your wheels…
Available for both front and rear axles in multiple sizes, the Lightning Bolt-On axles are a high quality aluminum axle with a simple bolt on head. Since the axles are made from aluminum, they will need a magnetic insert from Hexlox to use with their locks which is a little disc that fits inside the bolt head. At that point you can use a 6mm Hexlox to secure each axle.
Lightning Bolt-Ons will fit Fox and Rockshox forks as well as certain road and mountain bikes for both front and rear compatibility. Check out the site for their axle fitment selector for compatibility and pricing.
theft aside, tool required axles are just better than tool less. Lighter, more secure, and lower profile. What’s not to like? Just keep a three way in you car, and on the trail if you need to remove a wheel you’ll likely be digging out a tube too so what’s the big deal with needing a tool?
I’ve said it many times: consumers need QR as badly as they need tubulars. There’s no pit or follow car where I ride.
For road I agree, qr is best. I only ride mountain and wasn’t thinking about rd when I made my comment.
QRs are fine for rim brake bikes, but thru-axles have solved the rotor alignment problem for disc brake bikes once and for all…
There’s no alignment with QR!
It’s just a type of fastening the axle.
Your wheel rests on the axle and not on the qr or ta bolt.
The only difference between qr and ta is that the ta has closed dropouts and diameter of qr is smaller.
There is no alignment with a QR, and wheels are happy to sit sideways in dropouts, and thru-axle fixes this problem
Keep drinking the Kool Aid. Thru axels are best for suspension forks & rear suspension frames. Rest is forum junkies thinking they need it and thus driving marketers to market it to them.
I’ve ran TRP Hylex road discs (best out there by the way. Most power & modulation) on a ti hardtail monstercross with a carbon fork. 160 rotors. 43-45mm wide tires. Road, gravel, and tech singletrack daily. Dirt drop handlebars. Bothends QR. I weighed in quite heavy at 250-260 at the time but still putting out 1200 watts in a sprint.
Never once did i experience disc rub, even in tight singletrack with a lot of body english to negotiate it, was the lack of thru axels an issue. Why? Because it’s not an issue on such.
You should train harder. 1200 watts at your weight?
+1
But TAs, especially those that have to be tightened as any other bolt are better for Dummies. That’s why it’s safer for the bicycle industry to use those because they keep the Dummies from hurting themselves.