Back in the spring we saw a preview of Swiss company MilKit’s unique tubeless valve kit that was designed to allow you to inspect, measure and refill or replace sealant in your tubeless tires without having to break the bead, unseating the tire from the rim. The system works with a special valve core and an accompanying sealant syringe to take the mess out of tubeless. MilKit was just at the crowdfunding stage when we first saw them, but in the half a year since the their 35mm long mountain valves have made their way to market and are fast developing a following, and have even refined the valves a bit to prevent any clogging. Now MilKit is coming back with longer valves to bring easy-to-manage tubeless to the road and cross as well for your deeper section rims. Check out what’s new and pricing after the break…


New to all of the valves, MilKit has updated the design a bit based on user feedback to reduce clogging of the valve core. That simple new rubber flap should make them easier to use over the long run the most regular tubeless valves.

The bigger news though, is the addition of longer 55mm & 75mm aluminum valves to use with the growing crop of mid depth aero tubeless ready wheels like those from big companies like DT Swiss and small ones like Hunt, not to mention a lot of off-brand copycat wheels. Now the road, gravel, and cross markets will also get to benefit from the hassle & mess-free valves, and will be able to easily check that you still have good condition liquid sealant floating around inside of your tires to plug up any punctures when the time comes.


As with the shorter valves originally targeted at mountain wheels, the new long valves will work without releasing all of the air out of your tires. MilKit says that you can keep around 20psi in your tires while checking on or topping off sealant, so that will carry over to the road too. It means you will have to release some air out of your tires (or they will release themselves abruptly when you remove the valve cores), but enough air will stay in the tire to keep its shape and keep the bead from coming off. Then once you complete their quick & simple 5 step process you’ll top back off to road pressure and be on your way again with rejuvenated flat protection.

milkit_compact-tubeless-valve-kit_mess-free_hassle-free_tubeless-valves milkit_tubeless-valve-pair_mess-free_hassle-free_tubeless-valves

MilKit sells their complete compact kit that includes the measuring syringe, a pair of valves, and applicator tube with the required valve, a valve core tool, and the manual for $49/49€. It does not include sealant, but can be got with any of their valve lengths. The valves themselves come in packs of 2, including one valve core tool. Available in either 35, 55, or 75mm lengths the pair sells for $26/26€. The short valves designed for mountain are in stock now with a number of online retailers (check their site for details), with the two longer valve options expected to be available by the end of this month.


  1. I spent less than 60 seconds adding sealant to my tires this weekend. That included removing the valve core, injecting from a 4 ounce Stans jar, reinstalling the valve core and pumping up the tire. Not hard or time consuming. Solution looking for a problem here.

  2. LIke rosey, I think it’s a solution looking for a problem. There is always a re purposed stans single shot bottle on my bench. I keep track of all my bikes and add a half bottle every 60 days or so in warm months, 90 days in winter as living in the southwest winter is still riding season and dry air seems to dehydrate the Stans. At that time if the core is sticking I replace it as well. So easy, so quick, not head tripping. After a time or two blindly adding sealant it’s time to rotate and discard the rear tire as the rocks eat them up. Maybe this would appeal to roadies or xc racers who are stressed about the amount of sealant and possibly adding too much weight if they used my method of add and go.

  3. This would have seemed like a good idea to me 10 years ago. Seating the bead used to be a pain in the days of non-tubeless rims with stans tubeless (or ghetto) kits and non-tubeless tyres, but with modern tubeless-ready rims and tyres I don’t even bother removing the valve core. Nowadays I just break the bead and pour a slosh of sealant in till it looks about right, then pump them back up with a cheap floor pump, one or two quick strokes and it’s back on. No need to over-think it.

  4. Managing sealant doesn’t seem difficult enough to me to justify buying something like this, but then again, brushing my teeth seems easy enough to do without a motorized toothbrush. I guess some people just need complicated solutions to feel like they’re taking the situation seriously, I dunno.

  5. Yeah, I just pop 2oz of sealant in with a little squeeze bottle occasionally. If my tires aren’t holding air well, chances are I need more sealant.

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