We first got a sneak peek at the Bead Biter clips as part of the complete Tubeless Tower Pro Workstation developed by Tubeless Solutions almost a year and a half ago. That idea had been to build a complete setup that would take the guesswork out of setting up tubeless, and convince even the most reluctant, obstinate, luddite, or retro-grouch bike shop that they could be spreading the gospel of tubeless without the mess. In the kit were a set of 3D printed rim and tire clips. Now named the Bead Biters, they are available separately and will make your home tubeless setup and maintenance life easier…

The Bead Biter clips/levers serve a dual purpose. They can be used for mounting tubeless tires when you go by the method of pouring sealant in as the last step before your finish mounting the tires. There the Bead Biters work like an extra pair of thumbs to hold the tire’s bead in place leaving a stable opening to pour the sealant into the tire. Then they become the tire lever that will seat that stubborn bead.

The Bead Biters are made from a custom resin blend that makes them stiff enough to leverage a tight-fitting tire, but flexible enough that they are said to be extremely resistant to breaking. Their clip part also claims to work as a makeshift pair of pliers to grip stem nuts stuck with dried up sealant, when your fingers alone won’t suffice.

In the $15 kit each pair of full length clips/levers comes with a third mini clip, plus a Velcro strap to keep them all together that also works as a tire boot in a pinch. Paceline Products who developed Chamois Butt’r is the first distributor for Tubeless Solutions’ Bead Biter clips Adventure Kit, but they are working on getting an e-commerce site up for direct sales as well. We’ll see about getting a set in to review as well, as it seems like a small solution that might help a lot of riders work a cleaner tubeless setup.



  1. Wouldn’t a simpler, tidier method be to simply mount the tire, remove the valve core, and squirt in the sealant using a 2oz sealant bottle, which you can reuse over and over, refilling from the big bottle?

      • Because wrestling with a difficult bead mount while you already have sealant sloshing around inside the tire can be pretty messy. Admittedly, some mtb mounts go on pretty easy, but road/ gravel can be tricky. I suppose removing the valve core is an extra step, but not much. You still probably want to measure out the amount of sealant you are putting in the tire, whether you use a measuring cup and pour it into the tire while not completely mounted yet, or use a smaller 2oz squeeze bottle to insert into the open valve, so potential for mess regardless. Anyway, there’s more than one way to skin that cat.

        • I think the difference is that our disciplines differ. Like Beat_the_trail mentions, that’s a good road/gravel method, not so much for larger MTB—which I ride. Makes sense both ways depending on tire type. [high five] Yay tubeless!

  2. removing the valve core is a standard procedure for quick installs, pump or compressor. It also gives one a chance to inspect the core for gumming up. After the tire is mounted reach for the sealant bottle and squirt it in. Clean. The hook on this tool is the worst idea, Maxxis Schwalbe and IRC all have aggressive, small hooks that grab the rim edge and are short enough not to arch over and cut the rim tape like this tool will. For an all new design that should have been addressed. An experienced mechanic will have no problem as they have mounted a few, this product is aimed at the other riders.

  3. Bingo AK Ben. That’s how I’ve been doing my road tubeless for a long time. I find that pulling the valve core at the start makes setting the bead easier since there’s less line restriction. On my MTB I’ll still usually dump the required amount in through a separated bead, but only because adding four or five oz of fluid can make the fluid gum in the stem. Also, if you use the Stan’s Race it’ll clog instantly in the stem.

    Fun fact, the #11 spoke wrench on a standard universal spoke wrench fits the valve stem core perfectly and eliminates using that silly plastic stem wrench.

  4. With the wheel hanging and valve stem at the top, leave one bead completely off. Add sealant. Begin mounting bead at bottom, working both sides up to the top. This way your sealant is in and secure. Pull up on the tire, guide the majority of the bead into the deepest part of the rim channel, and push the remaining bit at the top over. Clean and simple.

  5. I use a 50 ml syrynge and surgical tubing to get the sealant in the valve with the core removed, simple, easy, and clean. There is no need to pour it in the tire first, even if someone is using a homebrew valve stem hopefully they had the wherewithal to use one with a removable core. These look like they could be a useful tire lever to keep in the ol’ tool bag if they truly are any stronger than the quickstick I have in there now.

  6. Since we regularly get bikes in with broken spokes and tubeless, I’ve gotten pretty good at getting a tire off and back on without losing too much sealant, requiring just a top-off before complete reinstall.

    My personal bikes use Stans, our shop uses either Bontrager sealant or Orange Seal. I don’t like mixing sealants so if I’m servicing my bikes at my shop, I had to get good at not spilling the goo if I needed to pull a tire for some reason. Plus I’m cheap, so I’m adverse to emptying out an entire wheel full sealant, especially if I just filled it.

    Frankly I don’t think this product would damage rim strips, I also think it is a solution looking for a problem. I can’t think of any tire/rim combo that this would benefit me for on setup.

  7. Also, how do you boot a tubeless tire? I guess they’re assuming you still carry a tube? One of the better reasons for going tubeless is the elimination of spares to carry. My touring rig has one tube stashed on it, otherwise all my other bikes don’t.

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