The new Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers might just be the tool you didn’t know you needed. Until now. According to WTC co-founder Brendan Moore, the Master Link Combo Pliers (MLCP) step in where most multi-tools leave off. Meaning, they include six key functions that most multi-tools don’t. And even if they do, the MLCP look like they may do it better.Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome

First and foremost, the MLCP are designed to be the most compact master link pliers possible while still retaining their functionality. This means that they’re not only easy to use, but also are compatible with 10, 11, and 12 speed chains – including the funky shape of SRAM Eagle master links.

Moreover, they include internal storage for two pairs of master links inside the handle which closes with a satisfying magnetic snap.

Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome

Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome

Along with the master link pliers function, the tool includes a number of other features like mutli-use plier jaws that can be used for tightening valve nuts, a tire lever spoon end (not recommended for use on carbon rims), and a 3-way valve core removal tool.

Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome

Machined out of 7075 T6 aluminum, the tool comes in at 38g without the master links installed. Even with the links, this tool is light enough that there’s really no reason not to carry it along.

Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome Wolf Tooth Components Master Link Combo Pliers 6 in 1 kinds of awesome

Pricing and availability

Available in a black or red anodized body, you also have the choice of black, red, blue, green, or gold anodized accent colors for the pivot bolt. Sold without master links, the tool retails for $29.95 and is available now.


  1. I wish they offered a set that is standard pliers. I’ve needed a pair to get stuff out my tires more than I need to add/deal with a quick link.

    • leatherman skeletool is a very lightweight set of pliers, much lighter than most of the leatherman tools you see around. It also includes a blade and a couple other small tools but really focuses on the Knife & pliers without throwing in the kitchen sink

    • I love the Connex, but I actually had an issue on my road bike with the link causing chain skipping when in my smallest cog. Seems like Ultegra + that link shape would just come around and, when in ‘just the right position’, would kick it out. Replaced with an SRAM link, problem solved. Other than that rare event, I’m totally with you on this.

    • You must have never broken a chain in the field, and while doing so gotten grease all over your hands, then on your bar tape, then elsewhere……

  2. Nice for the tool roll or the race bag, but not really useful in a saddle bag. When you have chain problems on the road, you need a chain tool to fix them usually. I do carry spare quicklinks (in case I need to replace said broken link) but you don’t need master link pliers to remove them.

    • Exact. Once a chain broke it’s good for the bin so you just want to rally home. For that a chain tool is needed to remove the broken part and shorten the chain.

  3. This looks like a well thought out design with many features. However, I can not envision any scenario during a trail side repair that would require the removal of a quick link. If the chain is broken, you’ll need a chain tool to replace the broken links and add quick link. Why would the quick link need to be removed in any trail side repair? Doesn’t make sense. Can anyone enlighten me?

    Also not a jab at Wolf Tooth as they are a great bunch of passionate people.

    • I’ve run into situations where another rider has jammed their chain between the cassette and the spokes, and to get the chain free we had to break the chain – or open the quick link. Obviously, opening the quick link is preferable, especially on today’s chains which don’t really like to have the pins pushed back in. Same could be said for certain bikes in extreme chainsuck situations. It’s not that common, but it does happen. And without the right tool it could mean the end of the ride.

      • Had the chain suck thing happen to me with my tt bike on the trainer (I forgot to readjust the limit screws when I switched cranks and was too lazy to install my chain catcher). I was lucky and stopped pedaling at the exact right moment and was able to remove the chain without gouging the crap out of my bike using my park masterlink pliers without removing the chain there would be no way to remove the chain without damaging the frame (outside of removing the cranks). The valve core tool is a sweet add to this product. Very annoying pulling out valve cores with your teeth in order to put on a valve extender when someone has aero wheels.

      • OK, so there’s a couple of scenarios where you _could_ open a quick link instead of breaking the chain to fix the problem. But you could always just break the chain and add a new quick link instead of pushing the pin back in. For the workshop, fine, but why bother carrying a redundant tool every ride just to save the cost of an extra quick link once a decade?

        • You could, but popping the quick link is faster and easier, and saves you quick link in case you actually break the chain later on the same ride. Also, the last time I had to do this very thing it was on someone else’s bike that didn’t have proper tools or a quick link. I was on a bike with 12 speed, they were riding 10 so of course I wasn’t carrying a 10 speed link. Fortunately I had a tool for breaking quick links on the OneUp tool (even though it is very hard to use) and we got the guy’s chain unstuck, reattached and saved his ride. Definitely not a requirement, but it seems like a handy tool to have around just for the valve core tool, tire lever, and storage for quick links alone.

          • Thanks for all the replys.
            However, I’m still not seeing it. If your chain is wedged between the cassette and spokes or between the chainstay and chainrings, how does removing a quick link solve the problem in those situations? The chain is still wedged in place. Sure now you have two loose ends instead of a connected chain but you haven’t done anything to solve the issue at hand. You’ll still need to physically pull, pry or twist the stuck section of chain to remove it. This can be accomplished while the chain is fully connected.

            • Just depends on the situation. Often if the chain is jammed between the spokes and the cassette, opening up the chain gives you more slack to work with and often allows you to get a better angle. Without it, you risk twisting the chain or damaging the cassette/spokes worse than they already are. Obviously, the best way would be to carry a cassette tool with you, but even fewer people do that. In cases of chain suck, the chain often gets smashed past the chainring and the chainstay doing some damage along the way. Then the only way to get it out is to do more damage to the chainstay, or remove the crank, or you can break the chain and pull it out through the gap. Obviously, this is all bike dependent as it depends on the size of the chainring and clearance at the chainstay.

              • This, I bent a der hanger in a 50 mile race one time, then the chain kept wanting to pop over the top of the cassette. I was keeping it under control until a rough section and steep climb back to back and the chain went so far it was under the spoke bends behind the cassette. The only way out was break the chain, then a gentle wiggle and after minutes of swearing and thinking the chain is forever stuck it will come out like nothing. This would have saved me a link. My luck that day was crap and it turned into a bike trail maintenance fest. bent der hanger, the chain super wedged under the cassette (after that I tweaked the limit screws), cut tire, leaving all the left hand gloves back at our friends house (no kidding we had 4 right hand gloves between us), but I did finish.

                the other part is I am a general nice guy and end up helping folks with all sorts of mechanicals.

  4. Looks like a great tool for traveling with your bike in a case, which is much neater if you remove and bag the chain. Of the tools included I’ve only ever needed the tire iron part while riding.

  5. I don’t get it either. I broke my chain on the way to work today. I had a quick link with me but no chain tool, so I had to hoof it. How does this help me fix a broken chain without a chain tool? I LOVE the initial direction of this tool, but I’m just not seeing myself using it unless I also carry a chain tool.

  6. I think the idea is to have this in addition to a multi-tool with a chain breaker. This tool doesn’t have any of the hex or torx keys you would need for adjustments or quick repairs. On the other hand the valve core wrench and quick link pliers are something you don’t have in a typical multi-tool. I see it as replacing the tire lever and loose quick link I already have in my bag rather thna replacing my multi-tool

  7. This is the PERFECT accompaniment to the Crank Brothers M19 multitools I keep in each of my bikes’ tool kegs. It eliminates the single-purpose valve core tools that I carry, it provides a great place for me to store 11- and 10-speed KMC Missing Links (I only run KMC SL DLC chains on all of my bikes) and I’m able to upgrade from my Park Tools quicklink opener (which is too bulky to carry with me on rides) with a smaller, lighter tool that also closes quicklinks (avoid having to spin the crank until the link is between the cassette and top of the chainring, then holding the brake and cranking). That it’s made in America is a real bonus, too!


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