Jagwire’s newest product is one of those things that’s actually been around for awhile – just on the OEM side. But once shops started replacing cables on internally routed frames that used the black hose like material, they started asking where they could get it for themselves. The end result is the introduction of Internal Housing Damper shop rolls.

FB18: Jagwire Internal Housing Damper silences frame rattles FB18: Jagwire Internal Housing Damper silences frame rattles

Just what is ‘Internal Housing Damper’? Essentially, it’s just a foam rubber hose that fits over most 4-5mm shift and brake housing and hoses. The damper is cut to fit, and placed inside internally routed frames to cut down on the noise from cables slapping the inside of the frame. It’s simple, effective, and light weight – and now, available for purchase. Well at least for shops. As it’s only available in a 10 meter roll, Jagwire expects this to be a shop only item, though if there is enough demand they’ll always consider other options. Look for this to be available in April.

FB18: Jagwire Internal Housing Damper silences frame rattles

In good news for disc brake bikes everywhere, Jagwire is making a running change to their brake cable lengths. Instead of 1.7m cables, all brake cables will be bumped up to 2m to ensure that there is enough length to reach the rear disc calipers on large bikes. The change applies to all levels and won’t affect the price.

FB18: Jagwire Internal Housing Damper silences frame rattles FB18: Jagwire Internal Housing Damper silences frame rattles

Jagwire also has a few new kits that should make brake work or customization easier, without having to buy kits that are too big or too small. Their Hydraulic Hose Fitting Mini Combo Kit includes olives and barbs for the most common SRAM and Shimano brakes with 10 of each for a reasonable price.

FB18: Jagwire Internal Housing Damper silences frame rattles FB18: Jagwire Internal Housing Damper silences frame rattles

The same goes for their End Cap and Cable Tips Combo Box – if you’re trying to bling out a customer’s bike, now you won’t have to buy individual colored kits to give it that extra flair.

jagwire.com

Subscribe
Notify of
guest

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

17 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Crash Bandicoot
Crash Bandicoot
4 years ago

After what had to be the easiest cable change on my internally routed (including the bars) ordu; in fact it was easier than my externally routed bikes. I’m 100% sold on jag wire. They make really good products and their fully sealed cable system is a lifesaver for deeply intergrated internally routed frames.

dustytires
4 years ago

yah, finally a way to get more of the foam ‘damper’ tubing for bikes that did not come with it. With jagwire internal routing kit and this foam tubing there should be no more whining about internal routing. Let the sleekness in dudebrah

Tom in MN
Tom in MN
4 years ago

Looks to me like the housing damper will only work on bikes with large ports, not ones with just housing size cable entrance and exits. So mainly carbon frames I’m guessing. Too bad, I do love Jagwire stuff.

Mark
Mark
4 years ago
Reply to  Tom in MN

You may need to do some creative threading to get this to work. Such as installing the hose to partially installed housing sticking out of the bottom bracket or some other large hole already in your frame.

Bob
Bob
4 years ago

how do these carbon frames not have the internal cable housings. my chinese fat bike frame has internal tubing. i just push the metal cable in the opening by the head tube and then viola it pops out the other end right where it is supposed to. i would be pissed if i had to fish a f*cking cable through my frame. what a crock of sh*t. i guess you pay the big bucks for all the technology not the simplicity.

JBikes
JBikes
4 years ago
Reply to  Bob

Is your fat bike carbon?
Depending on how the frame is made, it may not be conducive to run what will have to be a bonded in carbon tube into the frame, nor is it really needed. Nice? Sure, if there are no trade-offs. Routing a cable isn’t hard.

Mark Sondag (@JombiWombi)

Hmm, I just cut a small square piece of foam and tied a piece of string thru it. Then, I removed the bottom bracket and pushed the foam up the down tube, under the cables about half way. Then I trimmed the string so it would not interfere with the bottom bracket and reassembled. Rattle solved.

blah blah blah
blah blah blah
4 years ago

Mark your the best! thanks

Tom
Tom
4 years ago

Same, but I thread mine from the head tube down into the down tube.

Still this stuff looks like the schizzle.

nopers is bopes
nopers is bopes
4 years ago

you could just get foam tubing at any supplier on the cheap. even just flat foam and tape it around.

that said, none of my internally routed frames make cable noise 😉

JBikes
JBikes
4 years ago

what kind of foam is it. Lots of foams crumble into a mess after a short period of time

typevertigo
typevertigo
4 years ago

I’m glad Jagwire extended their rear brake cable to 2 meters. Does this carry over to their brake cable housing kits as well? For some reason, they never stock the XL version cable kits in my country, and the normal length version kits are just too short for a cross bike with internally routed full-length brake housing in a size S.

Shredder
Shredder
4 years ago

From my Ibis Ripley setup guide, circa 2014:

use a piece of 7/16” OD,
1/4” ID closed cell EPDM foam tubing.
You can find it at McMaster-Carr, part
number 4339T1. Simply slide about 12”
of foam over each of the cables inside
the top tube

JBikes
JBikes
4 years ago
Reply to  Shredder

2014? Dude that bike is ancient obsolescence…

BALE®
BALE®
4 years ago

Just use a length of shrink-wrap instead – works a treat

ricky bobby
ricky bobby
4 years ago

I put three or four zip ties evenly spaced around my internal housings and leave the ends uncut. When you install the housing into the frame the long ends of the zip ties act like little nylon leaf springs and press the cable/brake housings against the inside of the downtube. Seems to work flawlessly and was extremely inexpensive. I get the 3mm zipties that are roughly 150mm long for that task.

Valentin Philippens
Valentin Philippens
1 year ago

My rattle issue was the rear brake cable that runs in the top tube. After a few failed attempts with different tapes and zip ties, I ended up using small 5/16″ O-rings along the length of the cable that runs inside the top tube (they fit nice and tight around the cable) and “voila!”, problem solved. Next time I’ll try the Jagwire solution.