
If you’re not already racing cyclocross by this point in the year, you’ve probably seen some friends doing it. Perhaps you’ve been out there and rang a cowbell or two. If so, chances are good you’ve caught the bug. So, where to begin?
You can always race your mountain bike with skinny tires on it to get started, but once you’ve committed to the sport, it’s time to commit to the right gear. We asked pro racers Ryan Trebon and Georgia Gould for their opinion on what you need to do it right.
Just for fun, we thought we’d get the manufacturer’s side of this, too. Brian Fornes is the marketing guy for Raleigh USA, which happens to make quite a few killer ‘cross bikes, and he chimed in. Jump the barrier for all the answers and get ready to eat some mud…

BIKERUMOR: First things first, what should someone look for when buying their first cyclocross bike?
GOULD: The most important thing is getting a bike that fits you properly. Bike shop employees can usually help you get close, but consider getting a professional fit if you can afford it- it will increase your comfort and decrease your risk of injury.
TREBON: Fit, I think fit is the most import thing by far.
RALEIGH: If you’re buying it for CX look for plenty of tire clearance between the tire and frame. When the courses turn to mud, you don’t want it building up and slowing you down. Grab the top tube and feel if the underside of it has a “flat” shape to it. A flatter tube actually rests easier on your shoulder than a round one. While you’re checking out the top tube, make sure most of the cable routing is here. Cables that are run on the down tube are prone to getting grit and mud in em…meaning more maintenance.
Don’t forget that a CX bike doesn’t have to be used exclusively for CX. CX bikes make for great commuters as they have enough room for fenders and a better geometry for everyday use over a road bike. If you’re looking for it to be multi use…make sure it has rack and fender mounts.

BIKERUMOR: would you recommend buying used and just upgrading a few parts or starting new?
GOULD: This depends on your budget, but I think if you can afford it, buy new. There are plenty of companies that offer very affordable ‘cross bikes.
TREBON: I think buy new is best if affordable, CX bikes take pretty good abuse, but a nice used bike with a good set of tubulars would also be a safe bet
RALEIGH: Cross is dirty and everyone crashes…everyone. Crashing and mud make cross fun but also make buying a used cross bike a leap of faith. It’s hard to tell how well a used bike has been maintained and what kind of carnage it’s seen. While you might be able to find a screaming deal on Craigslist for a used CX bike there are plenty of new CX bikes out that won’t break the bank off the bat.
BIKERUMOR: What are some of the key cyclocross specific parts that need to be on the bike?
GOULD: Pedals make a big difference. Make sure you have pedals that you are comfortable getting in and out of, as you will be doing this often in a ‘cross race. Tires also make a big difference- if you have to choose one set, go for mud tires. Brakes are also important- low-profile ‘cross brakes will function well in all conditions, especially muddy ones
TREBON: Tubular tires and appropriate gear.
RALEIGH: Cantilever brakes (currently) and a tire with some tread on it and a chain guide (helps keep that chain on the chainrings when things get bumpy or mucky) Aand while it isn’t CX specific, it’s a good idea to make sure it has a replaceable der hanger (and order one as soon as you get your new bike) Those things can get bent in a spill or potentially break if things get too muddy. Remember…don’t be mad if/when they break. That’s what they’re supposed to do and save you the expense of buying a new derailleur

BIKERUMOR: Drivetrain: compact or regular? What about cassette range?
GOULD: It depends. A stonger rider will be fine with a regular setup (39×46 seems like a good place to start), but some beginners might feel more comfortable with a compact setup. A 12-27 cassette should be good for most folks.
TREBON: I run regular 46-39 130bcd and a 12-25. Courses are usually flat and a 39-25 is generally small enough for the slowest of courses. I would stay away from single ring set ups though.
RALEIGH: Most new CX bikes will come with a CX specific drivetrain (36/46 is pretty standard) and getting up to a 28t cassette will give you the range needed to cover most cross terrain. Pros will run a larger gear combination….but they’re Pros and being paid to do this. SS (Single Speed) requires a lot of dedication (maybe some dead brain cells) and an ability to suffer more than everyone else. However, if you have the leg and lung strength and don’t like maintaining your bike…SS is the category for you.
