WD-40 IB15-9

We’ve seen chain cleaners come and go, get re-invented, and even cause more of a problem than they’re worth. Like chain lube, there is really no real clear winner on which one works best, but WD-40 focused on keeping it simple, making it easier to use, and making it durable.

Slip past the break to see why WD-40 thinks they have hit a home run with their new cleaning system….

WD-40 IB15-1

WD-40 Bike has made a strong entrance onto the bike scene, and not just because they’re a part of one of the most recognized general use lube products in the world, (that you still don’t use on your chain). “WD-40 Bike” is managed completely separate from its parent company, only being sold in actual bike shops. The line is kept simple with only 6 quality lubes (5 bike specific plus the original recipe) and cleaners, and despite the “don’t use WD-40 on your chain” mantras, shop mechanics have taken to it quite nicely.

Seeing their new chain cleaner, my first thoughts were, oh, another attempt to make cleaning your chain easy and less messy. However, WD-40 incorporated a couple of clever features and in just handling it, it felt very durable.

WD-40 IB15-8WD-40 IB15-4

The WD-40 Chain Cleaner has a release switch that locks it securely onto the chain and allows to to be easily removed, however what stands out is that odd little metal hook. The hook is for holding the unit in place while cycling the chain backwards by hooking it on the derailleur cage. This way you don’t have to use your free hand to hold it in place, and you can clean the cassette with your free hand using their new brush at the same time eliminating a step in the process of cleaning your drivetrain.

WD-40 IB15-2

The unit is simple and easy to clean out since it’s not overly complicated with too many nooks & crannies and elaborate brushing systems. But the the real question is – how well does it actually work?

WD-40 IB15-5

While not that all exciting to some, many wrenches out there might like WD-40’s new brush. Its bristles are sturdy, but long & fine enough to work their way deep into the cassette & derailleur’s tight spots. Using this along with the new “held in place” chain cleaner, cleaning times could be sped up and simplified.



  1. Rixter on

    So there’s a hook to connect the $25 chain cleaner to your $600 Di2 or Red or EPS derailleur and scratch it up? Hmmm no thanks.

  2. Ripnshread on

    Ummm…looks exactly like the Park/Pedros/Nashbar/ect unit we all saw 20 years ago. Does it also spread grimy nasty stuff all over your chainrings and frame leaving behind a black silt on everything including the chain?

  3. djbutcher13 on

    @rixter dude go out and ride your bike. oh wait you might get a scratch from a rock flying up. Nevermind keep your $6000 bike in your garage.

  4. Michigan Tim on

    Like the article started to say…these things don’t work, are messy, and do nothing to clean the other half of the drive train: derailer pulley gears, rear cassette gears/teeth and front chainring gear teeth. If you’re going to get serious about cleaning a mountain bike drive train, this is not the correct method.

  5. Jack on

    After 10 years of unsatisfying cleaning from similar chain cleaners, I finally learned that it takes a second wash session with plain water in the cleaner after the first with degreaser.

    As for the hook on this one, you could use a cord to loop around your seatstay / QR/ axle and not have to worry about damaging the derailleur.

  6. Allan on

    I don’t see anything new here…ok maybe the “hook”, but big whoop. These things do nothing but spread grimy black crap all over your drivetrain. I know it’s such hard work, but just use a toothbrush on short segments, wipe, and repeat.

  7. Rusty G. on

    Filzer chain cleaner. No way around it, if you’re going to clean your drivetrain you will have to do multiple passes with the chain cleaner with new fluid. Then wash your entire bike with mild detergent and sponge. Squeezing the sponge around the chain for good measure. Get yourself a Morgan Blue chain keeper to simplify the process. You’re chain will never be cleaner and brush scrub your cassette. What’s great about the Filzer is that there is a little magnet in one of the chambers and collects all the finite material coming off your chain as it runs through and all the internals are serviceable with a Filzer kit. What’s always collected by the magnet fascinates me. Love this way of cleaning my drivetrain. Let it all dry and I even hit it with an air compressor each link. Relube. I am always receiving comments on how clean my cassette and bike is. Yeah, if you’re not so inclined you will think it’s a pain, but you spend a lot of time on the thing – no reason to not keep her shiny, clean, quiet, precise, lubed, and sound. Always hate hearing and seeing sweet bikes that look and perform like crap.

  8. badbikemechanicx on

    No thanks. WD-40 is cancer for bicycles. Everyone in the industry knows it and marketing won’t change the perception.

  9. Yard Dog on

    these things suck. just remove the chain and clean it off the bike. modern chains with quick remove links make it easy and tool free. saves your bike from all the muck and you can get your chain much cleaner.

  10. Eric Hansen on

    Cleaning any chain with solvents and brushes is a fool’s errand. I cleaned this chain with scalding water, dawn, and a scrub brush. Then I took it to the parts washing tank, with solvent that’ll make your skin tingle if you don’t wear gloves. Then I blasted it with brake cleaner to get the solvent out, then an air hose to get the brake cleaner dry.

    Finally, I put the chain in the ultrasonic tank to see what came out.


    As you can see, even after an exceptionally in-depth brush and solvent cleaning, the chain was still very, very dirty.

  11. Robert on

    Use a master link in your chain so you can quickly pop it off, clean it in degreaser and make it shine. While you have the chain off, you can easily clean your cassette. I tried the big “blue” and the “pig” and they just don’t do a real good job. Chain removal and cassette cleaning takes 30 minutes unless you soak the chain overnight.

  12. Rixter on

    @djbutcher13 scratches, dings, etc are all part of riding and they typically happen accidentally. I just don’t need to make them happen on purpose.

  13. Mike T. on

    @badbikemechanicx – “No thanks. WD-40 is cancer for bicycles”

    So tell us YOUR negative personal experiences with WD-40 on YOUR bike. I’ve been using WD-40 for my chain cleaner for maybe 10-15 years and for the last season as my chain lube – with 100% success too. I take it one step further though – I let an open container of WD40 sit for a few weeks so all the solvent/thinner evaporates. This leaves a lovely thick oil (who says WD40 is not a lube?). Then I mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits just like I do with Homebrew that I have used with perfection for 20 years. Then I apply a drop to each roller/pin. Wipe the next day before riding. I re-lube about every 6 weeks or 600-700 miles. My chain is cancer-free too.

  14. MM on

    Anyone have any tips on how to keep the mtb 11 speed cassettes clean? All the machining on the XX/XO1 cassette traps so much dirt 🙁

  15. Clancy on

    After reading through the comments I’m very worried. For years I’ve been able to use my Parks chain cleaner along with simple green and in 5 minutes or so get my chain shiny and clean. True, I have to dump and refill 2-3 times to get it that clean then rinse with water, and I do have to use the Parks brush and some degreaser to clean the cassette, but I must be doing it wrong. Why am I not having all the problems you guys are? Is it that maybe I can’t think of anything negative or cynical to post? I just don’t know.

  16. Tim on

    I don’t get the hate for this product. We used the Park version of this tool in the shop I worked at to rapidly give many bikes tune-ups and cleanings, and the results were good enough that I bought one for myself. I had to use a cassette claw and brush thing and a rag, too, but I don’t think anybody is claiming this device is the only thing you need to clean your chain.

  17. Eric Hansen on

    The point is not that this product sucks, but that ALL detail cleaning of a chain is pointless wankery. When your chain is dirty, flush out solids with a light lube, clean off the chainring, pick off any derailer cakes that might be forming, wipe off the excess oil, and be done with it.

  18. Chris mckernan on

    Been skeptical of chain cleaning tools for ever but since using the Pedros Chain Pig, I’m convinced it’s the easiest, most efficient way to EVER clean a chain. The Pig and Pig Juice are fantastic. Blows this POS away!

  19. Tim on

    Maybe a good device would be a cheap universal dummy hub which fits in every dropout width and has an 8t plastic cog on it. Get the chain on the biggest front ring, take out the rear wheel, insert the dummy hub and get the chain around that small cog. Then you could get some solvent on the chain and vigorously pedal backwards with your hand; the high speed of the chain would fling some of the filth out from inside the links. Using a dummy hub would help you to be sure you aren’t getting anything on your disc rotors that shouldn’t be there.

  20. #betterthanyou on

    Just buy an ultra sonic parts cleaner if you are that concerned. I use one in my shop with rock and roll mirricle red almost daily. Change the water every other day and you’ll be running a clean and shinny drivetrain with almost no hassle.


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