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SRAM introduces road-specific Paceline brake rotors & HRD levers w/ dropper post remote

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Along with the wider range gearing announcement for Force eTap AXS, SRAM added a few new additions to their overall dropbar lineup. New HRD, for Hydraulic Road Disc, levers give your mechanically shifted 1x bike a new drop bar remote lever on the left. And for anyone riding a road bike with SRAM disc brakes, the new Paceline rotors are worth noting.

SRAM Paceline road brake rotors

SRAM introduces new Paceline brake rotor for road + HRD levers w/ dropper post remote

Thanks to a new brake track design specifically for road or gravel use, SRAM claims the new Paceline rotors will keep things quiet. Perhaps more importantly, these rotors are about half of the price of the higher end CenterLine XR rotors.

SRAM introduces new Paceline brake rotor for road + HRD levers w/ dropper post remote

Available in 6 bolt or CenterLock, and in 140mm or 160mm sizes, the 6 bolt rotors will sell for $40 each while the CenterLock versions are $50 each. Centerline XR rotors remain the top of the line option at $80 for 6 bolt, and $105 for CenterLock.

SRAM HRD drop bar remote brake levers

HRD levers w/ dropper post remote

Unofficially, people have been hacking their left shifters to work with dropper posts for years. But now you can buy one that’s purpose built – no hacking required.

The levers are meant for 1x drivetrains only and are available in Apex, Rival, and Force trim levels to match your current drivetrain. Each lever is sold as a complete braking system with a flat mount caliper (available in front or rear brake depending on your preference at the bars).

SRAM introduces new Paceline brake rotor for road + HRD levers w/ dropper post remote

Instead of the shift paddle working a front derailleur, it has been tuned to perfectly operate the mechanical dropper post of your choice – though we confirmed that they require a cable head at the lever and won’t work with dropper posts that require a cable head at the dropper post. Interestingly, it means it won’t work with their own Reverb dropper posts without using a cable-to-hydraulic adapter. You know, unless you hack it with something.

Pricing for each brake starts at $215 for the Apex lever and brake, then $246 for the Rival, and $290 for the Force lever and brake.

SRAM.com

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luddite
luddite
4 years ago

Typical. Not 2 hours ago I ordered a Pro Discover dropper lever, then this comes out! >2x the price, but a slicker solution. I guess I’ll have to do an upgrade later.

blahblah1233445
4 years ago
Reply to  luddite

Why would You need a dropper on a gravel bike? Please explain, cause, for the love of beer, I can’t understand it.

VeloFreak
VeloFreak
4 years ago

why would you need a gravel? get a hardtail mtb

Tom
Tom
4 years ago
Reply to  VeloFreak

try riding the MTB with your gravel bike riding buddies on a real gravel ride. You’ll get blown out. On the other hand, if your road bike will take a 35mm tire, you’ll be just fine.

blahblah1233445
4 years ago
Reply to  VeloFreak

I do have a gravel bike and it’s perfect for commuting. But I agree, that for off-road, a good XC bike is much better. That’s why I asked about droppers – I see no point in mixing those with gravel bikes.

Greg
Greg
4 years ago

“This rotor will be quiet, we promise.”

BMX
BMX
4 years ago
Reply to  Greg

Greg beat me to it, if you want quiet you need a two piece rotor. The one piece rotor as these are deform when heated due to expansion properties of metal. Two piece gets around this by having a carrier that doesnt let the disc warp and has a bit of expansion space like a hope rotor. These will defo wobble once hot causing that PTSD inducing rub sound we all hate. cling cling cling etc

TheKaiser
4 years ago
Reply to  BMX

My assumption was that they were talking about the famous SRAM “turkey gobble” sound, or squealing when wet, not heat induced warping, but the writeup is kind of vague

Jon
Jon
4 years ago

There are a fair number of forest service roads around here with big tank-trap rolls in them, etc. Diamond Knob has 21 degree downhill sections with exposed rock surface and that’s not terribly uncommon for roads here. They’re totally do-able on a gravel bike but you’re too far forward and the bike has too long a reach to get off the back of the seat like you could on MTBs. It’s just really really annoying. I don’t have a dropper post but I’ve often thought “this would be a lot less treacherous if I could hoik my weight back and down.” To each their own.

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