Wolf Tooth Components 1x10 and 1x11 single chainrings for XX1 SRAM Shimano Race Face FSA and Middleburn

We first spotted them at NAHBS on Black Sheep’s bikes, and now Wolf Tooth Components is developing a full line of “Drop-Stop” chainrings for 1×10 and 1×11 drivetrains. The tooth profiles use alternating thicknesses, similar to SRAM’s stock XX1 chainrings, to allow you to run the single front ring without a chainguide…provided you’re using one of the newer clutch-type rear derailleurs.

To clarify the headline a bit, it’s any 104BCD crankset for their “standard” chainrings, or any modern SRAM crankset by replacing both the spider and rings with their single-piece ring.

According to founder Mike Pfeiffer, he made one so he could run XX1 on his fat bike or run a 1×10 without a guide. He soon found there was quite a bit of interest. And demand. So, he made a business of it. He told us the 7075-T651 billet aluminum’s being cut now and the first production rings should be available in 2-3 weeks.

Wolf Tooth Components 1x10 and 1x11 single chainrings for XX1 SRAM Shimano Race Face FSA and Middleburn

Initially, here’s what’s on tap:

  • 104 BCD: 30/32/34T
  • SRAM direct mount: 32/34T
  • Middleburn 30T snowflake pattern optional

For tech geeks, a 30T chainring on a 104BCD spider is putting the bottom gap between teeth pretty darn close to the top of the spider. To keep things running smooth, it has a 2mm inward offset so the chain won’t contact the arms. It’s threaded, so you’ll need a standard set of chainring bolts to install it. The only concerns mentioned are potential mud buildup and the minimal amount of material at the mounts could be an issue for those routinely hitting rocks and logs with their chainring. Bash guards are recommended if that’s your style of riding.

Pfeiffer says the benefits of their chainrings are that they enable use of XX1 with any brand crankset and enable 1×10 drivetrain with no chainguide & any brand crankset. For those looking to upgrade/convert their system, this saves quite a bit of coin compared to getting a new crankset. He says they’ll also work just fine for singlespeed, though they don’t offer any real advantage over other rings for SS – the benefit is really for 1×11 & 1×10.

Wolf Tooth Components 1x10 and 1x11 single chainrings for XX1 SRAM Shimano Race Face FSA and Middleburn

Many more sizes and mounting options are promised, some of which are listed on their website. Oh, and it’s all made in the USA.

Wolf Tooth Components 1x10 and 1x11 single chainrings for XX1 SRAM Shimano Race Face FSA and Middleburn

The concept’s picking up steam – we recently posted Absolute Black’s forthcoming design for the same cranks.


  1. every time i come across new chainring company, i just think to myself – HBC reallllly messed things up. product looks great wolf tooth. im so glad more companies are stepping into this arena!

  2. Yet again, these rings are way too big for 1×10 for people who ride up actual mountains. Yes, if you have the XX1 hub/cassette setup with the eleventh 42T platter in the rear, it works. But if your biggest rear cog is 34T or 36T as found on 1x10s and you are not a flatlander, then you need to discard the 104BCD and get a smaller direct-mount ring up front. Please, please, someone make a 25T and 26T for those of us who need to climb!

  3. @Tes – Many of us run a 32T single front w/ an 11-36 cassette in the PNW. We have hills. We go up them. Yes it sucks sometimes, but the upside (no lost chains ever, quite) outweigh the downsides for us.
    It may not be for everyone, but that doesn’t mean it’s only for people who live in Kansas.

  4. Tes, if you need that low a gear to climb, wouldn’t you do just as well to run a double? I mean running a 26t with a single ring up front would severely limit your top end gearing. Maybe you wouldn’t mind but I’m guessing most people needing a gear that low just wouldn’t be willing to give all of their flat land performance just to stick with one ring in the front, hence the reason companies aren’t addressing this….just too small of a market.

  5. Hey Tes,
    Check out our website photos. Also, the photo above with the Middleburn crank — that’s a 24T! These were specials for a couple of test riders doing some extreme rides but we absolutely do plan to make these smaller sizes. Cannot give you an exact timeframe but we can and will make them.

  6. I’d buy a 26. 26×11 is the same as 33×14, and that’s fast enough for me. I’ve run a truncated 6spd cassette and never spent much time in the 34×16 on my 29er.

  7. Tes-You obviously don’t know much about the 1×11 drivetrain and why it even exists…..but then again, you’d need to ride a bit more. I don’t say that as a bash, but that’s the point of XX1 (or 1×10 or 9 even). It’s a purpose built for those who ride….alot….and looking for maximum performance.

    XX1 was not designed for people who’d need a sub 30t cog to compliment it. If you can’t ride a 30t-36t front ring, XX1 was not only not designed with you in mind (or any 1x system) but it physically wasn’t designed to go any smaller. While I haven’t tried, I doubt you’d be happy with the results of a 26t-28t front cog as it was not optimized for such.

    And btw….I do live in Colorado and I run a 36t front with a standard XX 11-36t cogset. Works just fine for me. And I like my pizza, beer, and Malboro red cigs when I can get them. Seriously….just stick to one of the many 2×10 setups that were designed to work for the masses. Or ride more. It surprising what just a few more hours on the bike a week can do for your ability to push bigger gears.

  8. AWESOME. Any plans for a 120 BCD version like the renthal SR4? I want to be able to switch between 1 and 2x without having to buy a chainguide.

  9. xx1 rings will be coming in 28, tough guy. so tired of the ‘omg i can climb it all’ e-riders. some people do 6 hour days and you just can’t push a 36 the whole time.

  10. This is exactly what SRAM should have done already for those of us who can’t afford or don’t need XX1. It might not work for people like Tes, but for all the people out there running 1×9 or 1×10 drivetrains it is the bee’s knees. (And yes, Tes, these people do ride in the mountains. In fact, a lot of us ride single speeds in the mountains). The main drawback has always been needing a guide on the front but this solves the problem. If I could afford to, I would be buying a clutch rear derailleur and ordering one of these chainrings right now.

  11. 27t would never work chainrings must be even numbers for the alternating spacing to work .

    31×11-36 here in the NE and I make all my climbs.

  12. “some people do 6 hour days and you just can’t push a 36 the whole time.”

    Actually bin judgin, what you mean is “I can’t push a 36 the whole time”. Plenty of people can, you’re just not one of them. Don’t assume everyone’s the same.

  13. I have no problem with how the 104bcd rings look but the spiderless ones look HORRIBLE

    WTF is with the snowflakes – it looks like it was designed 15 years ago…. way to ruin a concept.

  14. Nick, Sevo…you guys are soooo bad-ass!

    After the first 3 comments, everything here went to hell.
    Yes, HBC really screwed up.
    I was wondering the same thing re: SRAM patenting the design…clearly they’ve learned nothing from Specialized.

  15. @Wolf, if you’re reading, have you investigated making rear singlespeed cogs as well? I don’t ride SS, so maybe dropped chains are much less of an issue, but it seems like something worth thinking about.

  16. Everybody: take a deep breath. (Ahhh…better now.)

    As stated at least once, XX1 DOES in fact make even-numbered rings from 28 to 38T. Clearly it is designed to work with all of them, or they wouldn’t exist.

    That said, when I built up my Jones (steel diamond) frame with a 4.7 inch fat front / 2.35 inch rear and 1×9 gearing, I used a 27T from (you guessed it) North Shore Billet. (Great service: got it from B.C. in only 7 days. Terrific looking and not a single dropped chain in >200 miles so far. Thanks, guys.) The rear has a Shimano 12-36T 9 speed cassette.

    In other words, my climbing gear is a 27/36, which is identical to the climbing gear on my full squish 29er 2×10 (24/38T double + 12-36T 10 speed cassette).

    What did I lose? Well, three ratios at the top end only: 38/12, 38/14, and 38/16 (and the 38/16 is a BARELY bigger gear than is my 27/12). I only miss those three ratios on the road or on long, smooth downhill sections.

    Honestly, if you want to try the whole XX1 concept on the cheap, take your X9 or X0 spider off and call NSB (North Shore Billet) for a spider / chainring combo. For $60 bucks, you can see if it’s for you or not.


  17. haha 32×26 too big….what about all those guys on single speeds? And don’t say they don’t ride ‘in the mountains’. they do. and they’re probably faster than you too….

  18. @Tes: WTF are you talking about. I ride up actual mountains on a frigging single speed. On my 1×10 with 36t rear I can climb for hours – and I am not a strong climber. It is pretty low enough.

  19. “Honestly, if you want to try the whole XX1 concept on the cheap, take your X9 or X0 spider off and call NSB (North Shore Billet) for a spider / chainring combo. For $60 bucks, you can see if it’s for you or not. ”

    Thats not at all true though is it!

    By that logic, any bike with a single ring is ‘trying the xx1 concept” – the XX1 is what it is because of the cassette range, weight and importantly the special ring design.

    My DH bike is not ‘trying the xx1 concept”……

    The NSB and other rings are just rings that bolt up in a different way and are available slightly smaller than they used to be….bah.

  20. 32 tooth front only and 11-36 rear in Colorado. Man up and train on your SS. Break out the 1×10 for days you don’t feel like walking in the mountains.

  21. Robin, you don’t need Sheldon. Run a SRAM 9sp 1:1 shifter with a shimano shadow + mech. They are fully compatible. Bam, 9sp clutched. The wolf on 9sp… Don’t know about, sorry. I hope and assume same.

  22. I’ll add to the old thread – AbsoluteBlack.cc also is doing 26T for 64 BCD (and other mounts).
    I also strongly disagree with Sevo – 26T is perfectly fine for 1x setup – not everyone is a racer who needs to pedal downhill. I prefer sacrificing high gears and fast descent to having more breathing room for very steep and long ascents.

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