Pinarello’s 2014 bikes are embargoed for a bit, but at least one has leaked out and is making the rounds. Spotted here on Competitive Cyclist’s Facebook page is the upcoming Dogma Disc road bike. It’s built with the new SRAM Red 22 Hydro disc brakes with what looks like Vision Trimax Carbon TC50 wheels…except for disc brakes.
Details are under lock and key, but we’ll post most on this and the rest of the line soon enough.
Glad to see the progress. Soon rim weights can be greatly reduced because no material will be needed for a brake track and there will be no head build up concerns. Didn’t think I was so vain, but I don’t think I could tollerate those huge ugly hoods on my bike. Looking forward to see Sram road hydro V.2.
There are no words for for ugly that is. Everyone is so caught up in this disk brake malarkey. Just one more “standard” to have to contend with. For ‘cross, I get it. However, rim brakes have never failed me. Cables are easy to replace and fix on the road (both shifting and brake. Electronic is dumb.). Over-heating problems? Learn to brake correctly. Afraid of blowing out your crabon clinchers? Stop riding them and get some Fulcrum Zeros. Want to be faster? Ride harder. Want to climb better? Go climbing more.
Dont get me wrong. I love new stuff as much as the next guy. But at some point it becomes completely stupid.
@wheelz
I dont think carbon rims are going to get that much lighter. Looking at a cross section of a carbon rim there really is no more material there than the rest of the rim. Speaking of Aluminum we may see a slight drop because the brake track is built up, but it is hard to say since road wheels are different than mountain wheels.
I ride a BMC GF02 disc to work everyday and train on the weekends on it. i can honesty say that i’m safer in traffic with disc. The one down to the brake is the cable. it stretches its not a easy to pull as the hydraulics on my MTB. As soon as the Shimano come out with a 105 or may be ultrgra brake lever, i will be all over it like a bad rash.
@This One Guy: What is stupid is blind resistance to a better solution. Nobody is taking your bike from you, you can keep riding it with a snobbish grin on your face. For everybody else it is progress. Disk brakes work better, end of story. They modulate safer, affected less by weather, allow for stronger wheels. Now add through axles to improve stiffness and make wheel changes easier (yes, they are easier).
I wonder if these rotors and hydraulic brakes solve some of the issues this guy found in road brakes.
https://bikerumor.com/2012/02/14/road-bike-disc-brakes-are-coming-but-will-they-work/
It doesn’t take you lot too much to get antsy about stuff does it? Discs are there for those that want them, no one is holding a gun to your head and there will still be plenty of folk (including me) that will stick with my rim brakes (and I work in the industry). But yes those shifters fell out of the ugly trree and hot every branch on the way down……
If you like riding in the rain, or wet or muddy roads, you’ll appreciate discs. Road Prima makes awesome alu clincher disc road wheels right here in the USA. For instance: http://www.rolfprima.com/products-Vigor-a-disc.php
@Victor: yes they will solve the issue the article you linked to had. Sram has tested these extensively for road, whereas the person in the article you linked to was using tiny 140 mm rotors intended only for CX use where the speeds are never very high. Thank goodness Sram is specifying 160 mm as minimum size. I’m hoping Shimano will be on board with the same standard. As for Colnago, pretty sure they will rework their C59 ‘disc’ frames for 160 mm brakes. Their ‘disc’ frames they’ve been displaying on their website for over a year are not actually available for purchase (local dealer says they can’t get one) due to problems with their custom 140 mm Formula brakes that have never been resolved. IMHO, the road hydro disc revolution will really begin when Shimano gets into the market as well!
@mindless- No, I think you are the one that’s wrong about that. Sure, you may make a slightly stiffer rim for the same weight, or a rim of comparable stiffness that is lighter, when you move to discs. However, you lose a lot of strength and stiffness in your front wheel when you go from a dishless traditional front wheel with widely spaced hub flanges and balanced spoke tension, to a heavily dished front disc wheel. Small changes to the rim profile will hardly make up for that.
For the record, I’m not at all opposed to discs in the right application. My mountain bike has them of course, and I just built a disc touring bike this winter. I think sometimes what you might view as “blind resistance to a better solution” is actually people being critical and wary of the newest and bestest, instead of blindly following the market.
And seriously, thru-axles? I wouldn’t even want them on a rigid mountain bike, certainly not for the road. Are your QRs really too difficult for you to operate?
@g, thru-axles on road bikes actually make some sense. The rotational forces involved with discs can easily overwhelm most quick release designs which require huge lawyer tabs (really more like lips all the way around). The issue is wheel retention and repeatability for perfect wheel alignment every time. It’s one thing to use a QR with discs on a steel frame/fork, but carbon dropouts pose a unique problem – I’ve already heard some stories of broken lawyer tabs on carbon road disc bikes with QRs. Thru axles might not be the most elegant solution, but they solve a lot of the issues.
@Rick, Dura-Ace 9000 brakes…Story time, or you can skip to the end *Awesome!*.
I have just the front break on my Giant Defy Advanced 2. When I read that they squeeze the rim equally I thought I just gotta have it. I was always adjusting my Ultegra 6700 to sit in the middle and not move either side too much. well, it was a gamble but I believed the hype, and I’m so glad I did.
1) My front break no longer moves, it sits centrally and touches the side of each rim equally
2) First time i used it, it felt like I was using disc breaks, you know the way your weight kinda shifts when you tap disc breaks at speed, the 9000’s kinda do that
3) Modulation – I can break safely with these breaks, they don’t cause a crisis when I’m heading downhill at 40+ MPH
So, I’m happy. I’m not in a rush to replace the back break, oh and
5) The break pads are really rather good. Perhaps I’ll change back to Cool stop salmon in the winter (perhaps the black/pink ones), didn’t really dig the Swiss stop GXP, but these pads are good. Would buy them again.
I put my Fulcrum racing Zero front wheel back on which was causing high speed shimmy, just to see if the situation has improved with that too.
So to wrap up, they look good and work real well; If I was an American I’d say *Awesome!* – But I’m from the UK so I’ll say, Jolly good show Shimano, time for a spot of tiffin 🙂
@mindless- I guess you are the expert, huh? Do you ever build wheels? I don’t think you really understand how they work. It turns out, it’s not all in the rim. Why would you bring up that 15mm axle right after you tell me it’s all in the rim?
@ Zach- Nobody uses lawyer tabs on rear dropouts- you flip the lever open and the wheel drops out. Simple as that. I don’t understand how “repeatability for perfect wheel alignment” could even be an issue with a standard vertical dropout. You put the wheel in until it bottoms out in the drops, and then you close the lever. How can you mess that up? Lawyer tabs on forks make the front wheel less convenient. They are there for idiots that can’t be bothered to learn to operate the quick release lever, not to compensate for the overwhelming force of a disc brake. I too have “heard stories”, but I work on bikes everyday and I have for years, and have yet to see a qr in a vertical dropout malfunction that wasn’t due to user error.
