TRP Spyre Flat Mount mechanical disc brake caliper

TRP’s Spyre mechanical brakes are among the only non-hydraulic calipers on the market that move both pads inward toward the rotor, making them a popular aftermarket add-on and OEM spec piece. Soon, they’ll have a Flat Mount option, too. This one’s a prototype still showing the CNC marks on the body, but production units will be far more polished. Check out the backside and more new brakes, plus an updated carbon fork with more axle options and mounts, below…

TRP Spyre Flat Mount mechanical disc brake caliper

Production weights are TBD, pricing should be similar to standard models at $90/wheel with all hardware, rotor and adapters included.

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Their carbon cyclocross fork is now available in 12 or 15mm thru-axles, and with or without fender mounts.

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The fender mounts are new and could handle a very lightweight rack and load, but they’re mainly for fenders.

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The new T850 direct mount scissor pull rim brake can be operated with either a noodle or center pull actuation option. Both drastically improve crank arm clearance for under-the-chainstay mounting options and allow for optimum cable runs.

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The new T930 side-pull direct-mount rim brake caliper borrows the machined aesthetic of their R979, but in a two-bolt mounting design.

TRPbrakes.com

11 COMMENTS

  1. thinking about getting these to replace my atrocious bb7s that came stock on my Niner RLT9. Any one have experience with them? Seems like a good value for the money…

  2. @Matt, I’ve set a few pairs up and have some feedback for you. First, they are much better than BB7s, both for feel and power. Make sure you use compressionless housing (try that on your BB7s first if you want, it does help), follow the setup instructions, and you’ll have strong, consistent braking.
    The biggest issue I’ve seen with these (online, not in person) is occasional incompatibility with certain rotor size/hub choice pairings. The brake is somewhat bulky, esp. on the inside, and with a small rotor on a hub with wide-spaced flanges you can get some rubbing. A 160mm should usually work.

  3. I can second Dockboy. I’ve had a pair and since gone to Di2 and defaulted to Shimano hydro, but can say that that the TRP’s were more than i needed on the road. They had great modulation and power, and a nice short lever throw (use compressionless housing). Clearance was a small issue. I was running a 160 rotor with Easton EA90 XC 29er wheels and had to file a very small amount off the inside lever arm the stop it ‘tinking’ on a spoke.

  4. @Matt- What was wrong with your BB7’s? Bad lever feel, poor power? I’ve used BB7’s by choice since around 2000 when they first came out, and as long as I used good cables and housing with a good lever (which was always, in fact), they were great.
    Is it the front brake or the rear one, or both? Internal cable routing can result in poor feel; bikes with chainstay-mounted brakes often don’t play well with BB7’s- the BB7’s cable stop is located in a weird place for a chainstay mount, and the housing may need to take a drastic bend to reach the brake, resulting in all kinds of friction. Another thing that can cause problems on the front and rear alike is badly-cut housing. I’ve seen many a person believe their brake is the problem, while in fact the cable is scraping on the inside of a ragged-edged, badly-cut housing.

  5. @Matt

    I did custom bike assemblies and worked in shops the last 12 years, and I really like BB7s.

    Well adjusted, they are about as good as they get.

    -Make sure the caliper doesn’t squirm when you tighten the bolts. Put a drop of wet lube (I use tenacious oil) between each conical washer. (I do the same thing regardless of what brand brake I am setting up.

    -Inline barrel adjusters setup in your housing makes a massive difference in lever throw and feel.

    -Proper bed in procedure.

    hope that helps.

  6. I’ve had Spyre brakes on my 2014 TCX for a while now, with 160mm rotors front and rear. They’re pretty damn good, both on the road and on the trail/bike park.

    Just keep an eye on brake pad material depth especially if you’re commuting. They do exhibit some squeal sometimes, but where I live, motorcycle brakes squeal louder and more annoyingly. An occasional cleaning of the rotors with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel will help.

  7. There’s also a post floating around the Internet (on Singletrack.com if I remember correctly) about how to disassemble a Spyre caliper to regrease its internals. You’ll need an assortment of Torx wrenches for that job, including a T30 and T40.

  8. Thank you so much for this! I have been desperate to get info on the new forks. So happy to confirm that there will be a 15mm TA version WITH fender mounts, the distributor in my area was skeptical about it.

    As far as Spyres go, I had them for a year (commuting) and really like them. I used them with both the TRP rotors and some Shimano Centerlocks, without any issues. Here is the post that TypeVertigo mentioned: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/psa-trp-spyre-rebuild-guide

  9. Thanks everyone, there is a shuddering in the rear that I have been told is due to a warped rotor. Considering they are only 2 months old and have seen little use, I find that hard to believe. They have very little stopping power under hard braking and are terrible for offroad/ light singletrack.

    It’s more than likely some of the issues mentioned above. Unfortunately, I have no clue how to set them up. Will find a trustworthy LBS to sort it out… I am sure they are fine if you know what you are doing, but I may decide to pony up for the TRPs. Looks like a nice product.

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