rotor spidering one-piece 46-30 double chainring for gravel and cyclocross road bikes

Mentioned at Eurobike but not available for photos, the one-piece fully machined Rotor Spidering now has pricing and a ship date. The design combines 46 and 30 tooth chainrings into a single part, bringing weight down to just 144g (claimed). While the low weight and easy direct mount design are two of the highlights, the real bonus is being able to run such a small inner chainring for wide range compact gearing on your gravel or cyclocross bike…

rotor spidering one-piece 46-30 double chainring for gravel and cyclocross road bikes

The Rotor Spidering is CNC’d from 7075 T6 alloy, then pinned to assist the chain moving up to the large ring. In addition to lower gearing, it should also fit more bikes thanks to the lower profile. As gravel bikes open up the chainstays to fit larger tires, many have switched to single chainring setups to maintain proper clearance, so this could be an option for those who still prefer a double.

rotor spidering one-piece 46-30 double chainring for gravel and cyclocross road bikes

rotor spidering one-piece 46-30 double chainring for gravel and cyclocross road bikes

The direct mount design will fit standard and InPower versions of Rotor’s 3D+, 3D and Flow cranksets with a 43.5mm chainline. It’s compatible with both 10- and 11-speed chains and drivetrains. It uses a round “NoQ” chainring profile, not oval. Look for it to start shipping around Christmas time and retail for a very reasonable $164.99 (€149,99).


    • With 11s cassettes, even the pros run 11-28s. At the top end, 46t gives you a bigger gear than 53×13, yet the bottom is lower than a 39×23. Shifting that on my triple? Ugh.

      It is conceded that a 16t jump in ring size is harsh. On the other hand, how much will you really need to?

      • Depends on what you want to ride. On my trekking bike I have a 55/39/30 triple with 11-30 cassette. I need both 30/30 and 55/11. Also, close ratio is a good thing. So larger cogs and, say, a 60, could make it a nice combination for a traveller.

          • If you ride in Scandinavia, especially Sweden, you have long slow descents. And you have the Scandinavian climate. If you don’t move your legs on such a descent, they get very cold. If you can keep pedalling at low power, your legs stay warm and it is a lot easier to take the next hill. I can keep up until some 55-60 km/h, which is enough for most Scandinavian descents.
            Disclaimer: my trekking bike is a recumbent high racer, so it is bloody fast. Still, even on a traditional trekking bike, long cold descents are a reason to have a fairly high top gear.

            • A 40+ mile an hour descent is a slow descent????? Sorry, but no amateur rider needs a 55/11 unless they literally have the slowest cadence in history. 🙂

  1. It’s intended for gravel bikes but still keeps the chain rings on the obsolete 43.5 mm chain line??? This should at least be 46.0 mm when combined with the 135 / 142 mm OLD of disc brake rear ends / hubs.

    • Agreed, this is obviously aimed at gravel bikes that almsot all run on a 135 or 142/12 rear. The chain line should have been made to be 46/47mm’s for such frames. 43.5 makes no sense at all.

  2. super compact, disc brakes an really big volume tires is the ‘new black’ – and im loveing it…

    we just need campy and ShimaNO to follow suit on super compact. 46/11 i sufficient for most people and sub 1:1 gearing is damm nice for everyone but racers – for climbing and bikepacking its ideal…

  3. If they also started making crank lengths down to 145 mm or so, this could be amazing for shorter riders like my girlfriend. She needs a 150 crank at most… cheapest way to get a decent crank today is to get a machine shop to shorten SRAM Apex ones.

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