Since its introduction, the Paul Component Klamper mechanical disc brake has garnered fans among the customer builder, hardtail, cyclocross and gravel crowd. And with January’s introduction of a Campagnolo lever compatible version, Italian road bike fans, too. Now, they’re making it more accessible for modern roadies, CX racers and gravel grinders with the introduction of a flat mount Klamper.

new Paul Klamper flat mount mechanical disc brake with dual independent pad adjustment

Full metal, made-in-America construction carries over, relying on hardened steel pistons and oversize ball and needle bearings to keep everything running smooth and powerful. We reviewed these last year and were impressed by their power and modulation, and love the ability to independently adjust each pad. The flat mount versions deliver all that, as well as the ability to run long-, short- or Campy arms, so they’ll work with any type and brand of brake lever – drop or flat bar.

new Paul Klamper flat mount mechanical disc brake for cyclocross gravel road bikes and hardtail mountain bikes new Paul Klamper flat mount mechanical disc brake with dual independent pad adjustment

Quick Specs:

  • Designed to fit all Flat-Mount Disc Brake Bicycles
  • Interchangeable Actuator Arms (Short-Pull, Long-Pull, Campy Pull)
  • Machined in Chico, California from American 6061 alloy and heat treated 12L14 Steel
  • Tool-free independent pad adjustment, bleed-free cable actuation.
  • Available in All-Black, All-Silver, Silver with Orange Pad Adjusters, Black with Orange Pad
  • Adjusters, Polished and Limited-Edition Colors
  • MSRP: $208/wheel
  • Weight: 211g/wheel
  • Availability Date: Now

So, those purple ones you see here? Yep, they’re available for a limited time along with the other purple bits!

Paul Component flat mount adapter

They also have a new Flat Mount Front adapter for $24 (black or silver) or $33 (high polished) that’ll work for 140mm or 160mm rotors.


    • Better design (more rigid caliper), better materials and tolerances probably add up to a better brake, no? I’m guessing they do.

      • Years ago, I bought a Paul backscratcher. Best backscratcher I’ve ever bought, hands down. CNC milled anodized aluminum, with the most perfect tines- not pointy enough to break the skin, But not so round that it was useless through layers (unlike those cruddy chinese-made cheapo backscratchers). The handle was just long enough to reach every part of my back comfortably, without straining my arm. It was $300 and I almost didn’t buy it, but then I saw the distinctive PAUL logo and knew I was buying quality. A+ 11/10

        • Disclaimer: I’m not a Paul groupie- I’ve had mixed luck with their stuff.
          Would you say that an Alivio two-piston brake caliper is the same as an XT two-piston caliper? Probably not, right? Again, better materials and tolerance add up to a better brake.

          • Dude, I completely agree with you. I tried dozens of $50 and $60 dollar backscratchers. Some of them I’d even rate 8/10s, but the PAUL was the only one that got a full 11/10. There’s absolutely no comparing the quality between an 8/10 product and an 11/10 one. People who only scratch their back hundreds of times a week may not notice a difference, but I scratch my back THOUSANDS of times A DAY. And I feel the quality each time.

          • True, but a Deore or Alivo hydro is still better than any cable brake. Including this one that costs 10 times as much. Much the same way a $6 shimano QR is better than an $80 Paul model.

            but people have to buy their status symbols….

            • So, you are still riding that bike with no labels and a nice functional Sachs Huret drive terrain with down-tube friction shifters? In reality, to ride a bike it is hard to justify more….

              • Did what you wrote just there make sense to you? in response to what I wrote?

                Is your riding so tame that you can’t tell the difference between 70s single pivot calipers and modern discs?

                • Brakes? Who needs brakes? 😉

                  I do think however that the pad and rim material on a caliper means for more than the brand on the caliper itself. There is a reason Campy still has single pivots for the rear if you so wish.

                  But, at least folks got over the fear of “razor blades” when it comes to disk brakes….still cant justify them for most riders unless they are in Mountain territory.

              • I’ll ride my Simplex downtube friction shifters tomorrow from Siena to San Gimigano, Giaole in Chianti and back to Siena to pick up my race number 🙂 They are awsome

            • On QRs- agreed. Shimano ones are better and far cheaper.
              Got to disagree that Deores or Alivios beat any mechanical brake in any situation. Stopping power is a function of leverage and friction, not of whether a cable or fluid is moving the pads. Use well-cut cables and compressionless housing and the difference shrinks a ton. I use plain old BB7s and Shimano Servo Wave levers (bought them ages ago), almost everyone that rides my bike agrees that stopping power is better than cheaper hydros. Good, cheap hydros have made inroads, no doubt, and overall hydros are better, but a well-done cable brake still is great.
              I think a big part of people hating on Paul though is jealousy of someone having the disposable income to afford an 80 dollar QR.

              • Yeah, you’re right. The reason people balk at spending a lot on inferior parts like these is jealousy.

                Or not. Even if I could afford to smoke cigars rolled in $100 bills, it wouldn’t be any less stupid to do so. Same with Paul comments – even if you can afford them, you’re still an idiot for buying them.

                • I should have put it differently- it’s not about jealousy, it’s about not understanding the mindset of someone who has a lot of money. If you’re making, say, 200K a year, 200 bucks simply doesn’t matter. Maybe you’d make a frugal millionaire, but maybe not. Maybe you wouldn’t opt for the marginal improvement of XTR or Hope over SLX, or maybe you would.
                  I’d feel comfortable calling this brake inferior only after riding it; end users seem to like them. Paul has been in business since around 1990, so apparently he has been doing something right. Again, not a Paul groupie, just think your opinions are rather strident.

        • (deleted) The tolerances on the tines are terrible and the anodizing is irregular. I had Calfee make one to my personal spec, I’m 6-4 with a long inseam, and very thick skin. It is spot on a weighs 13g less than the Paul’s, plus the carbon weave looks better IMHO.

    • I get it, and on surface you’re right. One bit that separates these from the BB7 is how they deal with winter. Every BB7 (and other brakes too) I’ve come across that’s been well used year round in these northern climes with the requisite inches of salted slush come winter has had one of the pad adjuster mechs seize up due to corrosion. Two friends on Paul’s (purchased the second year the Klampers were available) on their year round commuters haven’t had that experience. That to me is worth something. YMMV depending on where you live and how you ride and maintain your bike.

      • I haven’t tried the Paul’s – using TRP Spykes on a fat bike used extensively in the icy winter, which is December-March here. Always too loose or too tight once you get any amount of (irregular) wear the fixed caliper is a nuisance. Also, corrosion and exposure led to a break in the red dial, so every adjustment needs a wrench now. YMMV -we get ice, freezing rain, runoff and salt. Worse if you store your bike indoors and everything melts on it daily. It’s a demanding environment.

        Which is why I strongly encourage anyone with a fat bike or any winter bicycle to use a double movement caliper. This seems like a nice, colorful option if you have the $. Buy good cables as well.

    • It’s the local made theme. Some made in USA parts are made from imported materials. There is cost and effort to pull this off. It is a rarity.

  1. Klampers work exactly as advertised and are a league above any other mechanical disc brakes.
    Correctly adjusted and with smoothly run compressionless outers, they will stop you just as well as hydros while offering additional benefits to some users. ACTUAL USERS will certainly agree.

    • I haven’t ridden them myself, so I can’t say either way. But I do agree, all the people who are so critical here have one thing in common: THEY HAVEN’T RIDDEN THE PRODUCT.

  2. I saw this headline and thought “Awesome flat mount! Just what I need for my Potenza bike.” Then I saw the price and realized I could sell off my current shifters and calipers and just buy Campy hydraulic levers and calipers for the same price. I think I’ll just still with what I’ve got now. I understand why these are so expensive, but it’s still a shame. It would be cool if Paul could bring out a budget version or something. Maybe plastic adjusters and some forged or cast parts rather than 100% milled.

      • While we are on Campy brakes….so, I got the new calipers with my Record 12 kit….cant roll a 25mm Michelin under the caliper on the bike…my older Record “Skeleton” calipers…no issues….hmmmmmmmmmmm

  3. Best mechanical disc brake < average hydraulic brake, just based on cable housing friction, & contamination potential, routing flexibility, and self adjusting pads.

    • I don’t agree. Take the best mechanical brake, with the best pads, cables, housing, and, very, very importantly, a lever with Servo Wave or similar technology, and in terms of power, it will easily beat something like a Deore or Tektro disc without Servo Wave.
      Contamination is a real issue, especially in places like Britain or Canada where it rains a lot. But lots of users don’t live in places like that. As for pad adjustment, I don’t mind doing it. In short, for some users, the benefits of hydros are not that compelling.
      I know it’s a minority position, and see why hydros are more popular, but I like my mechanicals and wouldn’t switch them for hydro.

  4. Paul makes quality components…deal with it people. Yes his stuff isn’t always cheap but if price is the only concern then go with cheap stuff and replace it a bunch.

    As someone who has Paul Hubs I can say they are top quality hubs and were cheaper than say a Chris King or Phil Wood (not bad mouthing them) the noise is loud and the engagement is quick. I also have various other Paul bits and they all do their jobs quite well with a nice look and ‘Merican making. Plus Paul has a great ethos, makes some stuff other companies might not and is super nice!

    • Personally, I have had mixed experience with Paul’s stuff. V-brakes- great. Really just awesome for a v-brake. Levers (very old ones, mind, 1994)- OK, they were very comfortable and light, but the pivots tended to get corrupted easily. Front hub- bad. Got it when I was 18 and weighed 140lbs (63kg), rode it around 18 months, the bearing cavity got bigger and even new bearings wobbled in it. No warranty, ended up recycling it. When I get a new bike, these probably are going to be the brakes I use, though. Reviews from actual users are good.

  5. There are lots of people that use these brakes on really long touring/gravel rides where hydraulics are a bad idea. Hydraulics are almost impossible to fix when out on the road unless you want to bring a bleed kit and hydraulic fluid along with you. Carrying an extra brake and shifter cable on the other hand is easy enough to do.

    Sometimes I think people just bandwagon onto the non-hydraulic brakes are bad meme without thinking it through.

  6. I have them on two of my bikes. My touring bike and my commuting SS bike. Those two bikes are the bikes that I’m able to work on completely by myself without a stand or tools.

    My other bikes (cross, full suspension, road, rigid mtn) with sram and shimano and so many tiny set screws, I bring in with me to work at the shop as side projects for my coworkers and I.

    Don’t knock quality until you’ve tried it.

  7. I had BB7s years ago, and converted to hydros for simplicity. I can recall on dozens of occasions needing to adjust the back pad mid-ride to firm up the feel. I’ve also blown through a back pad in one wet/muddy ride. The TRP Spyres eliminate the need to ever do a separate back pad adjustment, but still require occasional cable adjustments to deal with wear. I can’t envision a future where I’d go back to the hassle of frequent pad/cable adjustments. I’ve also worked in a bike shop since the early 1990’s and remember how nice all the Paul stuff was, but seriously, I could never afford any of it.

    Hydro brakes just work better and are less maintenance prone.

    The other thing I noticed is how much the Paul’s brakes stick out on the non-drive side. They hang out so much it almost seems like they’d be too exposed and prone to damage. This is something I’ve never considered with any of my Shimano or Magura hydros.

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