The SwitchLever is a fairly standard thru axle option with one nifty trick up its sleeve: A disappearing lever. The result is that your bike can have that clean look of tooled thru axles, but without having to use a floppy mini-tool to change a flat on the side of the road. The included lever detaches, leaving a smooth dropout area, then snaps in when it’s time to install or remove your wheel.

switch lever tooled thru axle with removable lever for road cyclocross gravel fat and mountain bikes

switch lever tooled thru axle with removable lever for road cyclocross gravel fat and mountain bikes

Thanks to a variety of thread pitches and lengths, they’re available to replace virtually axles you may have. Options include:

Front/Rear 12mm Thru Axles

  • Lengths from 100mm to 230mm
  • Thread pitches: M12*1.0/1.5/1.75
  • For axle standards of 100, 142, 148, 157 and 197 mm
  • X-12 option

Front 15mm Thru Axles

  • Lengths from 110mm to 199mm
  • Thread pitches: M15*1.5 or M14*1.5
  • For axle standards of 100 and 110 mm

The lever handles come in solid and hollow (a bottle opener version is in development, shown below), with the hollow one weighing just 24g. They say the average axle weight is 41g, obviously more for longer axle widths. These levers can be used on most any tooled thru axle, but their axle is designed to capture it so it won’t fall out if you decide to leave it in. Once tightened, you can pull it out and reposition it to the desired angle.

switch lever tooled thru axle with removable lever for road cyclocross gravel fat and mountain bikes

 

The SwitchLever is spec’d on the Mason Revolution 2 road bike that launched earlier this year, and OEM spec seems to be where their interest lies. They’re a manufacturing company based in Taiwan, with no specific product pages on their website, but they’ll make the axle in any custom length and thread pitch. Contact them directly if you’re interested, and we’ll update if they add a consumer-facing site.

gw-mfg.com

19 COMMENTS

  1. I already carry a multitool and everybody should. So what is the point of having to carry this handle ? It uses Torx instead of Allen, and not every multitool has that. The axle is fine, bu a dedicated handle that one need to carry, that is not fine.

  2. It’s just like having to carry around a massive Allen key. Our 18my crux has these bare axles. I hate then because when the bike comes into the pits I have to go grab tools to change a wheel. What was wrong with the old system Specialized?? 16/17 model was perfect.

    • Syntace offer a similar plug tool for X-12 axles as well. They have always struck me as a bit silly, if the lever isn’t attached to the axle you need to store it, so it’s either in the pack or pocket with the multi tool, which can unscrew the axle already. I know of no riders who don’t go out without some kind of bike tool, either stowed on the bike somehow or carried in their pack.

  3. These removable levers are absolutely stupid. Why would you bother buying a lever like this if it will live with your flat kit? Just carry an L key. Any multi tool worth it’s salt can tighten one of these axles anyways.

  4. Seems like a decent product for OEM application. Leave the lever in 99% of the time then remove it and leave in the car if you’re using the bike for TTs. Seems silly as an aftermarket solution

  5. Roxshox stealth thru axels or Robert axel project. Literally why would you buy this to carry another tool,other than basic multi?

  6. Guys, y’all missing the genius of this! Just look at the shape in the YouTube still and imagine how the hollow version will surely have a hole in the handle. Pull out the hex bit, voilá: weed pipe!
    Don’t ask how the SwitchLever sucks for you, ask how you can suck on the SwitchLever!

  7. All screw-in type through axles I used (including DT) tend to get stuck, It’s because you tighten/loosen them under tension. The aluminium threads have a lot of friction, even when using the proper grease.

    I now have RS Maxle Ultimate Trough axles all around on both of my mountain bikes. You screw them in tensionles and tthen ension them with the QR lever. Easy peasy. And you never forget you lever. 🙂

  8. There seems to be some misunderstanding in these comments.
    It’s a 6mm hex to tighten or loosen.
    you can use their “lever” or your wrench.
    you can ride with their “lever” in the axle, or you don’t have to.

  9. Worst vendor I’ve had the displeasure of using. During the entire development process every step took too long and in the end Glory Wheel messed up production multiple times. Guessing they have no QC or follow though. Staff we worked with tried hard but something is wrong internally.

  10. My frame came with the option to ditch the Maxle lever and just use a 6mm hex key. One less bit hanging out on the frame and how often do I remove my rear wheel anyway. I just keep a cheapo 6mm hex key in my tool bag so I can get some proper torque. My fork has the leverless option through the manufacturer, but since I pull my wheel off to rack my bike, I didn’t opt for that one.

    I just don’t see why, unless you wanted the I9 tool storage axle, you would buy an aftermarket axle when most manufacturers offer them without the lever. Frankly, I wouldn’t want to buy some random company’s aftermarket peice just because I worry about production quality.

    I did buy a Robert Axle for my fatbike so I could pull my kid’s Burley at the beach. But that is a specific piece.

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