If long rides with fast folks is your idea of a good time, the Canyon Endurace is an endurance road bike that delivers. Designed with aerodynamic touches, it mixes efficiency with thin seatstays and their S15 leaf spring seatpost to add compliance. The result is a bike that rides great for hours on end, but may need a few tweaks out of the box.

I tested the Endurace CF SL 8.0 Disc, which comes with Shimano Ultegra Di2, DT Swiss wheels, and Continental tires. After waffling between the Large and XL sizes, I opted for the XL, but requested a shorter stem, and that ended up being the best setup for me…and this is important, so I’ll start with the geometry and fit…

How to order the right sized Canyon Endurace

canyon 90mm alloy stem
Yes, the stem came with five manuals. Seriously.

It doesn’t matter how great a bike is if it doesn’t fit you. Absent retail dealers where you can go try one, Canyon’s direct-to-consumer business model means you really want to get this right the first time.

I usually ride bikes with somewhere around 585mm Effective Top Tubes (ETT), and a 90-100mm stem. Canyon’s L and XL Endurace model splits that, with 568 and 592, respectively. Combine that with stem 110mm lengths for both, and I was worried the XL would have me too stretched out, but the Large would cramp my riding style.

Canyon sent a 90mm stem separately, and this ended up creating a bike that fit me very well. For now, if you wanted to mix and match, you’d have to order a different size stem separately, then return the original, unused stem that came on the bike for a refund. Canyon’s rep says adding such customizations directly to the online ordering process is in the works.

It’s worth noting that I’m 6’2″ (188cm), which puts me on the tall end of the recommended bike size for a Large frame, but going with an XL was the right call. So, don’t just rely on their recommended range…get a professional bike fit, or measure your other bikes, and use your judgement.

Canyon Endurace tech, features & actual weight

canyon endurace endurance road bike frame details

At first glance, the Endurace looks like a normal road bike, with a few design cues (like the little triangle created at the seat- and top- tube junction by the seatstays) to set it apart. This model comes in black, also, but this matte blue’s iridescence is simply gorgeous.

canyon endurace endurance road bike head tube and fork closeup canyon endurace endurance road bike front triangle

Like most endurance road bikes, it has a taller headtube, with plenty of steerer tube length to help you get as much of an upright riding position as you’d like.

The Endurace CF (Carbon Fiber…there’s an alloy version, too) comes in distinct electronic or mechanical drivetrain versions. So, this one has no cable ports for mechanical shifting, only Di2/EPS wire ports. Brake hoses run internally on the frame and fork.

canyon endurace endurance road bike front and rear views

Tube shaping is subtle, but you’ll find angles creating an inside perimeter under the top tube and continuing down the head tube. From there, they soften, but leave a slightly flatter topside to the downtube.

The downtube’s overall shape is one of a truncated Kammtail foil, with a longer “cone” to the leading edge than I’ve seen on some other aero bikes. This complete bike isn’t aero per se, but the downtube’s shape and smooth headtube facade cut drag where they can.

canyon endurace endurance road bike bottom bracket closeup

Nothing is oversized on this bike. In fact, even the chainstays look thin compared to a lot of bikes these days. But the Endurace keeps its composure on sprints and standing slogs up the mountain. Nothing about it seems overbuilt, but nothing felt under built either. Just a good solid bike that rides well.

canyon endurace endurance road bike rear brake closeup

The bike is full of little details that illustrate the thought that went into it. The rear axle through into a covered port, and the derailleur hanger is quite robust for a road bike. The entire drive side dropout is simultaneously sleek, yet obviously quite solid.

canyon endurace endurance road bike steerer cap closeup

Things like the recessed top cap with Canyon’s logo…

canyon endurace endurance road bike small parts closeup

…concave washers on the stem faceplate bolts, and a hidden plug covering the seatpost binder bolt all add up. Small things like this make me happy because it shows they’ve really thought about the entire user experience, adding functionality without sacrificing aesthetics.

canyon endurace tire clearance measurements

The bike comes stock with 700×28 Continental Grand Prix 5000 tires on DT Swiss E 1800 wheels. What you see above, though, are Bontrager R3 700×32 tires, which is what I used for the duration of the test.

Why?

Because the Continental tires are not tubeless ready, but the wheels were. And, since I was using this bike for a 3-day, 240+ mile ride to the NC coast, I wanted as much cushion and compliance as I could get.

canyon endurace actual weight on the scale

The size XL Endurace weighed in at 17.59lb (7.98kg) out of the box. I dropped about 30g off that total once it was setup tubeless with the wider tires.

what is included with the canyon road bike in the box

Couple more notes on the Canyon experience: It comes with everything, including little tools and accessories to help you put it together. The packaging is solid, ensuring the bike arrives in great shape. This is the second Canyon I’ve reviewed (the other was their entry level mountain bike, the Neuron AL), and both were packed really well.

detail photo showing how to adjust the Canyon leaf spring seatpost

The 8.0 level Endurace models (of which there are several builds to choose from) is the lowest level that gets you their carbon fiber leaf spring seatpost.

It’s a clever design that uses two “blades” to allow flex, with minimal change to the saddle’s angle. That said, if you want to adjust the saddle’s angle, you have to pull the post out of the bike and loosen the bottom bolt that clamps the two halves together. It’s quicker and easier than you’d think…actually, it’s about as quick and maybe even easier than loosening the usual bolts on many seat posts.

Once loosened, you simply slide the halves, using the printed guides as an indicator of movement. It doesn’t take much movement to bring a big change to the angle. Once bolted down and reinserted, it held its position perfectly. The saddle’s fore-aft positioning is adjusted with the rail clamp bolts, like normal.

Canyon Endurace road bike review

canyon endurace road bike review and riding action photos

Most rides aren’t 80-mile point to point adventures. And I got a lot of regular rides on the Canyon, too. It impressed me with its mild manners and easy riding demeanor. It could also carve a mean corner. Basically, for regular riders who aren’t toeing a line every weekend, this is the kind of bike that makes everything from those after-work interval workouts to the all-day rides more enjoyable.

canyon endurace road bike review and riding action photos

Out of the saddle and county line sprint efforts are rewarded with solid forward momentum. The fork’s legs look small (and actually pretty cool, thanks to a forward cant at the crown), but they kept the front end tracking true.

Note the rear blinky light placement on the seat tube in the pic above. The wide open space between the chainstays allows for this, which came in handy once we loaded the bikes up for our ride to the beach:

canyon endurace road bike loaded with bikepacking frame and saddle bags from blackburn design

The Endurace pulled light duty as a credit-card-bikepacking machine, helping me get the essentials from stop to stop over three days in the sweltering summer heat. And, to its credit, neither sweat nor the bags’ straps had any effect on the paint finish. It looked good as new once I got home and removed everything and washed it off.

Check out the review of these Blackburn Design Outpost bags here, which shows all the stuff I packed into them, too. Even with the added weight, the Endurace still handled predictably and rode smoothly.

canyon endurace road bike review and riding action photos
Two hot dog, fries & soda meal deals sound like a good idea after hours on the bike…but they’re not. Trust me.

I put about 450 miles on the Endurace for this review, with a little more than half that on the big ride. Everything remained tight and quiet, and all parts worked flawlessly.

When you step up to a higher model, the upgrades come in drivetrains and wheels, but also their one-piece carbon handlebar and stem. This model’s alloy bar and stem were fine, but I do prefer carbon bars for their ability to mute vibrations better. This becomes more valuable as an upgrade when you’re spending hours and hours on the bike.

canyon endurace road bike review and riding action photos
I don’t get it either.

If you ride to escape or ride to explore, the Canyon Endurace is the kind of bike that makes it easy for your mind to wander. Easy to ride, easy to own, and easily grabs compliments for its good looks. If you’re looking for an endurance road bike for gran fondos, century rides, or just keeping comfortable while hanging in the pack, give this bike a look.

Canyon.com

19 COMMENTS

  1. Thanks. I’ve been wondering if you could squeeze a 38c tire into this bike (heard reports it was possible), but that 32 looks pretty tight. Thoughts?

  2. Firstly, you can get a better idea of bike fit sight unseen by looking at stack and reach numbers rather than just top tube length + stem length to get something closer to your current bike.

    However, For those interested there are still a lot of dimensions beyond this that can make a big difference in the overall fit of the bike: handlebar reach, seat tube angle, and seat post set back can add up to a bike that has a reach that fits several bike sizes larger or smaller.

    If you have a bike that you really like the way it fits, then I’d recommend plugging it into an online calc that takes everything into account and compare to the new bike.

  3. I’ve owned this this bike for about 9 months and about 500 hours of ride time.

    38mm? No way. Might be able to safely run a measured 35 without rubbing paint, but unless you run your cleats really far forward and/or run very short crank with small shoes, you will have toe overlap with anything beyond 32. I run 175mm cranks, 46 shoes, cleats all the way back and I get toe overlap on any tight low speed turn if I don’t mind my foot position.

    That said, it’s an incredible bike. Probably my favorite road bike I’ve owned, and that includes a ‘20 Venge Pro that I really only ride when I’m going for Strava segments.

    It’s a sublime bike to climb on. It flexes in a way that helps maintain fluid and stable pedaling.

    It’s scary fast downhill. I hit 101kmph a few weeks ago on a high altitude highway descent. So, it’s aerodynamics are fine.

    Other things I love about the Endurace are what it doesn’t have. No pogo stick stem (Roubiax) no fender or rack mounts (it’s a road bike) and no obvious differences to the Ultimate (Canyons world tour race bike) from a few feet away.

    I’m 36 yo, fairly flexible, 6’0” 160 lb, and ride a Large with a 110 stem. I like to ride with my hands “on the rubber” meaning I don’t hold the handlebars behind the hoods. I actually grip the hoods, almost all the time, when I ride. I swapped out to a zero stack headset dust cap from slamthatstem.com, and went to a -10 degree Pro Vibe stem. This was to get the bars low enough for out of the saddle climbing and leveraging the drops while descending and accelerating aggressively.

    So, for these reasons I would actually advocate the opposite approach to fit from the author; go with the smallest frame you can and lengthen the reach, if need be, with a longer stem, longer reach bars, altering the lever mounting position.

    • To each their own, for sure, I know a lot of riders that take your fit approach. Personally, I don’t like the way a long stem handles, so I usually err on the side of 90-100mm stems and longer top tubes.

    • @Bennett, I find that I’m more likely than otherwise to ride a bike with fenders when the weather turns iffy. Fender mounts are a win in my book. YMMV

  4. This isn’t the only bike that does it but I don’t like that Di2 cable routing. If the Di2 wire goes in with, or near the the rear brake hose you can clean up the front end quite a bit. And eliminate a hole in the frame, ie Etap or Di2 frames become more similar as all you need are two easily hidden holes for the wire to exit near the mechs. I’m not particularly a fan of the completely hidden cable look as it can complicate maintenance but there’s no need to be unnecessarily messy either.

    It varies depending on many factors, the individual frame and rider but larger frames can offer some specific benefits especially if the goal is long rides with maximum comfort.

    • Wow, that head tube di2 port is awful. I’d remove the disc hose grommet and try to squeeze the wire along with the brake hose, smushing some Sugru in to tighten the fit.
      What an afterthought!

  5. I own the endurace Al disc version and i love the bike. I have a second cx wheel set with 35mm front and 40! mm tire back. Its tight but works well.

  6. I own an Endurace CFSL and it will clear a 36mm (measured actual width) tire just fine with plenty of clearance. Setup was Specialized Roubaix 32c tires on 25mm internal width rims.

  7. Seen two cracked Canyon frames just in the last month. Both frames failed on the seatstay, just behind the seat tube. China carbon. Plastic Fred bikes. You get what you pay for…

  8. 7.9kg out of the box. Same weight as my Pragma Mawson that can fit 50mm tires and has a superior BB design with zero proprietary parts and full custom color options.

    Canyon need to fix their BB tolerances. Hambini has made many videos on the topic.

  9. According to the Perfect Positioning System page on Canyon’s website:

    “Your body height/inseam length ratio is outside the normal range”

    Which, to be fair, is better than just suggesting the closest frame size and hoping for the best.

  10. This bike for sure handles 700×35’s.. I run it in crit, road races, and gravel races. I run the 700×35 panaracer gravel king sk’s. I had 700×38’s mounted it but that was way too close. The 35s’ are fine as long as you are not going into a mud fest. The bike is great. It’s so nice to be able to go from road to gravel with a 1min wheel swap.

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