All-City Mr. Pink Full Bike 1

I have had my eye on the All-City lineup for a while now.  When the road oriented Mr. Pink and Spacehorse bikes dropped I knew I would own one of them.  After careful deliberation I choose the Mr. Pink.  Having always been a fan of the classic steel roadies of yesteryear, it just made sense.  Once I chose the frameset, I had the not so easy task of deciding just exactly how the build was going to come together.  In the end, the frame’s specs helped direct the build.  Thanks to the large amount of tire clearance, and a somewhat relaxed road geometry, the build turned into a go anywhere project for road, commuting, and even some cyclocross riding.

Roll on past the page break for the full build list and images…


All-City Mr. Pink Full Bike Drive Side
Original commuter build showing FSA Team Issue Wheelset (1440g with rim strips), Selle Italia SLR Super Flow 145 saddle, Axiom Roadrunner LX Reflex fenders, and King Cage Kargo Cage

While its good looks may resemble a classic steel racer, this bike is anything but.  The Mr. Pink has a few modern tricks up its sleeve (tubes?).  The frameset is constructed of quality Columbus Zona steel.  It ditches the more traditional 28.6 diameter downtube for something of the oversized variety.  Internal cable routing is used for the rear brake.  An internal ED coating is done for rust prevention.  And with another leap into modern “standards” the frame has a BB30 bottom bracket shell.  Lugged dropouts, a 27.2 seatpost, and integrated seat tube binder keep the classic feel alive.

All-City Mr. Pink Columbus Top Cap

For those, like myself, that plan on riding their bike in the wet, hidden fender mounts are present.  In an effort to get this bike on as many roads as possible, tire clearance is listed at 32mm (28mm with fenders).  That said, I have run a tire that measured out to 34.7mm wide with no issues, and even set the bike up with tires measuring 30mm with fenders and had room to spare.  To accommodate tires of that size, the frame and fork are built around mid reach brakes.

Speaking of the fork, it is a 1-1/8th inch lugged 4130 ChroMoly beauty with a lovely radius curve and 43mm rake.  Up top is a flat, lugged crown, low rider style mounts for fenders are present, and it has lugged dropouts.

The frame weight for my 58cm comes in at a respectable 4lbs 12oz.  The fork runs 2lbs 5oz.  Retail for the frameset is $799.

All-City Mr. Pink FSA Orbit X Headset 1

Holding the frame and fork together is the FSA Orbit X headset.  This is a traditional 1-1/8th external headset made from forged and CNC’d 6061/T6 alloy, and it uses angular contact bearings.  It has a claimed weight of 95g.


All-City Mr. Pink Retroshift 1

I had initially considered a full SRAM Rival build.  That idea was quickly scrapped after a short hands-on with Retroshift.  Adam at Retroshift was kind enough to supply a set of their CX2 levers which I then paired with my own Ultegra 6700 front and rear derailleurs, chain, and 12-27 cassette.  The CX2’s come in at a svelte 389g (actual), which is about 50 grams lighter than Ultegra 6700 STI levers.  Cost ($189) is a fair bit less than their Ultegra counterparts as well.  Sure it’s a bit old-school, and you can’t shift from the drops, but for this build, I have no complaints about the set up.

All-City Mr. Pink Ultegra Derailleur

The rest of the drive train is rounded out by an FSA SL-K carbon compact crankset outfitted with 52 / 36 semi-compact chainrings from Praxis Works. And to connect my feet to the bike, a set of Crankbrothers Candy 1’s were used.

Brakes, Cables, and Housings:

All-City Mr. Pink Rear Tire Clearance

To slow things down, a pair of Paul Components Racer Mediums were sourced.  These “standard” reach brakes have a reach of 47mm to 57mm and have a claimed weight of 154g each.  Kool Stop Thin Line pads are supplied.  To get these canti-style brakes working on the frame, a Surly cable hanger was used on the rear seat clamp, and a head set spacer ‘cross style cable hanger was placed up front.

Both brake and shift cables are Delta’s Aztech Duracote Teflon cables running inside white Jagwire L3 housing.


All-City Mr. Pink SL-K Handlebars 2

Along with the crankset, FSA was kind enough to send over their SL-K cockpit.  Up front is the SL-K bar (227g actual) and SL-K stem (110mm, 160g actual).  See Marc’s take on the stem here, and stay tuned for my opinion later down the road. Holding up the saddle was the SL-K zero offset carbon post.  However, due to its open top design, it was tossed into the parts bin and replaced with my personal Thompson Masterpiece seatpost for now.  More on that here and here.  Once the closed top version is in production, FSA has promised they will set us up with one for further testing, and we will post a full review along with the rest of the cockpit.

All-City Mr. Pink Fizik Antares Vs. Cutout

The saddle on this bike comes in the form of a Fizik Antares Vs. saddle.  To accommodate those customers looking for a saddle with a center relief zone, Fizik launched their Vs. line a while back.  The Antares is a flat saddle that measures 142mm wide and is 274mm long.  It has a wider nose that starts out at 45mm and widens to 50mm before the dramatic flare at the rear.  Weight comes in at 206g (actual).

Wheels and Tires:

Paul : H Plus Son Wheelset

Given the nature of this do-all build, I knew I would need a wheel set that could withstand a bit of punishment, but wouldn’t be a boat anchor on faster road rides.  The final parts selection ended up being rock solid.  H Plus Son supplied their popular Archtype rims, Paul Components sent over their FHUB and new geared RHUB, and I purchased Sapim CX-Ray spokes and brass nipples to tie it all together.

All-City Mr. Pink Paul Components RHUB with i9 Internals

The RHUB is the real story here, as it is Paul’s first foray into a geared road hub.  It features a hub shell designed and machined in house, that is then fitted with internals from Industry Nine.  This means it’s loud.  Very, very loud.  Not that it’s a bad thing.  It also means it has instant engagement thanks to 6 pawls and 60 teeth, which has proven very nice off road.

The hubs are laced to the revised H Plus Son Archetype rims.  These rims are 25mm high, 23mm wide, and have a claimed weight of 470g.  That is up from the original version, as H Plus Son has added some extra material to the rim bed.  The braking surface is machined, then anodized black.

The spokes and nipples come from Sapim.  CX-Rays keep things stiff and light.  Brass nipples should allow for longevity and better durability.  And the rim is tapped up with some CaffeLatex tape we had in the parts bin.

These wheels started off wrapped in Continental CycloXKing 32’s, over the winter.  The measured out to 30mm wide.  They were later swapped out for the less aggressive Continental Cyclocross Race 35’s (measured to 34.7mm) for a short period of time.  And now the wheels are ready for summer commuting / road riding with some supple Schwalbe Kojak 35’s (running 33.5mm)

Weight for the set is 1810g with rim strips, but without QR’s.

The complete bike with the current Kojak tires, sans any add on’s like cages or light mounts, but with pedals, comes in at 21 lbs, 15 oz (9.95 kg).

All-City Mr. Pink Crankbrothers Candy 1 Pedals

Now that the bike is built and fine tuned (thanks to the labor of fellow contributor Mitch Lomacz), it’s time to put the miles in and report back.  Stay tuned for individual parts reviews over the next few weeks.


  1. Drool-worthy setup. If i ever built a do-anything bike, it was going to have Retroshift. And those brakes, assuming they garner a good review, will be a strong contender. Might be hard to pry me away from TRP CX8.4’s though.

  2. @Ck – Thanks! And not to spoil it, but you won’t ever find me running another mid-reach break from this point on.

    @Gravity – he said if he builds a “do-anything bike” but did not specify what frameset he would build up. Therefor, brakes used could be anything until that bit of info is specific. Cross frames make great do-anyting bikes and I almost ended up with one for this project. Had that happened TRP CX9’s or 8.4’s would have been on it.

  3. I have a ridley with sram red and CX8.4s as my off road and storm bike. It’s freakin awesome and sometimes I want to quit road training and racing and just ride weird offroads linked together by quiet, non-car roads. Sometimes I’ll use eggbeaters and go in the woods on smoother 1track or a mix, and other times I can put speedplays on and go on long rain rides on the roads.

    I love to see this all city bike in a post, i bet it gets a lot of fun usage. I am actually most jealous of anyone who has a “bike commute” regardless of the bike. I still ride my bikes around 15KM a year but I work from home.

    Enjoy the commute!

  4. Rim brakes? On do-it-all bike? Really?

    Just starting similar project but based on Cotic Roadrat. Definitelly will go for discs…


  5. I never see the need for the extra stopping power from discs. I mtb a lot as well, but try not to brake and scrub a lot. I have a set of nice Maguras on my mtb that I love, but not sure I’d like mechanical discs better than the trp v-brakes on my cross bike. I keep the trps setup pretty light, lots of room for modulation and have to pretty much fully close to lock up.

  6. @IvanMTB – the brake choice really comes down to personal preference. I hate mechanical disc brakes with a passion. The recent introduction of the Shimano hydraulic road disc parts have me excited, and I bet I will end up riding and liking that set up. Until then, my Paul Comp Racer Mediums will do just fine.

  7. Good call on the Retroshifts. i’ve had a set on a similar bike for about a year and I still love them. Integrated shifters are great and I use them on other bikes, but for a reliable, serviceable, tough setup, Retros are tough to beat. Smart Goats.

  8. Good job stating the facts on the seat. It’s good to see objectivity instead of subjective critiques for once.

  9. Hi, can you please do a review on H PLus Son rims? I know them from the fixed gear world, but I’ve recently seen them on A LOT of boutique road bike builds and I would to know how are they on the long run. Thanks!

  10. @dhbomber – Stay tuned, each part of this bike will be getting individual reviews (ie. frameset, drivetrain, wheelset, etc…)

    @Ham-planet – pounds and ounces are standard units for us in the US for heavier measurements like full bike weights. But, as we do have an international readership, I have updated the post with the weight in kg. Thank you for the heads up.

  11. Hi,

    As a resident of UK and not brilliant riding technician I will always prefer discs. Especially having only very good experience with BB7s.

    But could not disagree – stoppers choice is personal choice.


  12. carl – These are basically a Tektro R200 (also sold by Cane Creek as an SCR-5). It is actually a discontinued model and not sure if Cane Creek sells it any longer. Our version is a little different to both the Tektro and Cane Creek versions as we have upgraded the bushings used to make a slightly better unit. We have revived it for production as it is such a great lever and works super well with our shifters. It is very Campy in shape.



  13. carl – and for all those who love this discontinued lever, Retroshift will be offering our upgraded version of it in a single speed version on our site in August.

    Why? Because we love you! 🙂



  14. I like steel, but all-cities are just too heavy. For the same price you can get a Soma. My Double Cross has a similar build but is more than 2lbs lighter in the same size.

  15. @6dave – I will see if I can figure out a retail cost for the build and update the post later on tonight.

    @Andrew – What fork are you running? And yes, the frame is a bit on the heavy side, but with a good carbon fork and a lighter wheelset this bike could easily shed 2lbs.

  16. Actually it is a pf30 shell and it is a pain in the ass to use campy cranks. I ordered four different bottom brackets before having to use an adapter that defeats the purpose of the pf 30 in the first place. great frame though, only wish the paul Racer M’s worked better, no modulation.

  17. Nice! I have the same frame running old sram Red and a cannondale bb30 crank. It’s made of parts I had laying around and works great as a commuter/daily ride/kid hauler. I built a King/DT wheelset for super durability. It’s not light, tips the scale at about 19 lbs, but its not made for that. If you want light, go carbon.

    I opted for the Shimano R451 mid-reach calipers with some new Kool Stop pads. I can’t imagine a better set of mid-reach stoppers but I have not ridden the Paul’s.

  18. Stock double cross canti fork, Campy Centaur 10speed group, Velocity A23/White Industries wheelset, and a mixture of Thompson & FSA bits to finish.

  19. Why did you go Mr. Pink over Space Horse? It’s a pity Mr. Pink isn’t available in black and blue anymore and now only comes in cherry.

  20. most of my research tells me that 32mm fit this frame, but i would really appreciate if someone could confirm that 35mm could fit, as quoted in the article … anybody? i have vittorias at 32mm, ritchey trail mix at 35, and kenda kwicks at 35mm and would like to use the bike on everything – road, gravel, and rocky trails if possible. thx

  21. @blm – as I wrote:

    “These wheels started off wrapped in Continental CycloXKing 32′s, over the winter. The measured out to 30mm wide. They were later swapped out for the less aggressive Continental Cyclocross Race 35′s (measured to 34.7mm) for a short period of time. And now the wheels are ready for summer commuting / road riding with some supple Schwalbe Kojak 35′s (running 33.5mm)”

    These are all measured using a nice digital caliper gauge, and the frame size is a 58cm. Clearance will vary with frame sizing. I suggest putting your tire in the rim you will be using, inflate it to the pressure you will run, and measure it. if its under 35mm, you should be fine if you run a 58cm frame. With some fine tuning, I was able to get the Kojaks to clear fenders even. it’s tight, but it works.

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