sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

We weighed pre-production parts at the SRAM Eagle 12-speed group launch earlier this year, but now we’ve got our own group installed on our own bike for a proper long term review. We also covered the technical details in another post and even had some first ride impressions on the Kona demo bike provided by SRAM. But, there’s nothing like mounting it up to a familiar bike and hitting the trails. In this case, I brought the bike with me to Dixie National Forest (just outside Bryce Canyon) and tackled Thunder Mountain Trail, which turned out to be the most beautiful mountain bike ride I’ve ever done. But before that, all the parts were thrown on the scale to get true production weights…

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

Shifter is 123g (with cable) and rear derailleur is 265g.

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

Chain is 249g (full length, with quick connect) and cassette is 362g.

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

A 175mm BB30 crank arm with 32T chainring is 238g for driveside and 239g for non-drive, for a total of 477g. SRAM’s standard pressfit 30 bottom bracket is 89g with the required spacer that sits on the driveside between it and the crank.

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

Here’s what it looks like on a Niner JET9 RDO. Install was straight forward, nothing special required other than getting chain length correct. On the 1×11 groups, SRAM recommends wrapping the chain around the largest cogs and the chainring (without it going through the derailleur) and pulling it together so that you have about two links (one inner, one outer) overlapping. That determines the chain length.

With Eagle’s 50-tooth cog and larger pulley wheels, overlap grows to about four links. As luck would have it, the chain they sent was exactly the right length without needing to be trimmed when using the 32-tooth chainring. My cable housing was in good shape, so I re-used it to avoid fishing new line through the downtube.

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

While our parts are technically early production, they came with no packaging, which meant the spacer guide for setting up the rear derailleur position wasn’t present. But, I compared my setup with the images from the launch to get it close and have had no problems.

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

Beyond the giant new cog, the most visible difference from XX1 to Eagle is the tooth shaping on the chainring. By employing a multi-faceted, multi-angled profile in addition to the narrow-wide profile, SRAM has created a nearly flawless chain engagement and release system. It’s quiet, smooth and (so far) hasn’t dropped a single chain or had any chain suck. The 3D spider is overly stiff, as are their carbon crank arms, which is a good thing. The only issue I’ve had is the crank arm coming loose by the end of my first ride, but a quick turn of the wrench had it back in shape for ride two. Time will tell if this becomes a persistent problem. I’ve had a well used SRAM road crankset come loose with some frequency until I overtightened it a bit, after which it stayed put without creating any noticeable friction in the system, so I’m not too concerned for now.

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

The real selling point for Eagle is the additional 50T cog. For all of us who’ve grown to love the 10-42 range offered by their 11-speed groups, this is just icing on the cake. I used it in the Italian Super Enduro during our first test rides, and I used it again at Thunder Mountain on some of the very steep summit efforts near the Hoodoos.


The wider range helps get up to the top…


and still left plenty of oomph for hammering back down to the bottom. In the past, I’d have stuck a 30-tooth on the front if I knew there was going to be a ton of climbing, but now a 32 works just fine and allows me to stay mostly in the middle of the cassette during normal rolling hills.

sram xx1 eagle actual weights and install notes

The trigger feels the same as ever, just with a sweet Eagle logo on the thumb lever. The only minor issue I found during set up is that it’s a bit more finicky as to where the derailleur is set. I got it close in the stand, but it needed fine tuning not he trail. I was able to dial it’s position while riding using the barrel adjuster until it was shifting equally well in both directions.

So far, so good. As in, soooooo good. If you’ve been a fan of SRAM’s mountain bike drivetrains, Eagle is simply a more refined, more capable version. We’ll report back with long term performance later…


  1. Interesting first real world review of this.
    Cassette is in fact heavier than advertised while everything else is pretty much spot on.

    A little worried about the 2 problems mentioned (crank coming loose – other cranksets often have this issue and its kind of a pain ; and derailleur finicky setup).

    I suspect its going to make XX1 non-eagle a lot cheaper too which.. well is also quite interesting heh

    • xxx – my hunch is the cranks will stay put once I get them tight enough, I’ve not had any similar issues with the XX1 group I’ve been riding for years, and the road group I mentioned was a well-used demo group that I eventually did get to stay tight by simply cranking it down pretty hard. As for the finicky set up, I had it dialed after a couple miles and haven’t had to touch it since…really only meant to say that it took a few minutes more fiddling than normal but certainly not excessive.

      • I’ve seen the crank coming loose initially after being assembled from packaging and tightened to spec. I believe it’s because of the massive amounts of grease applied from the factory in the crank’s spline interface area. It causes hydraulic lock before everything is actually making contact.
        You can tighten it, then release it, and grease will spooge out. Then tighten it again, and the wrench will turn maybe a quarter turn farther. I repeat until the wrench no longer moves further every time.
        Or you can clean the grease out pre-installation, and grease the spindle side and threads…

      • Looking forward to using this group set. Been using SRAM xx1 for a while. I purchased some XTR at the beginning of the year and sold it because it is unreliable. XTR = Noisy cassette, still uses a spider for chain rings and that silly little 24mm axle. Press fit BB30 axle with a Chris King press fit bottom bracket has been more reliable than any external, threaded bottom bracket I’ve used. 3 years on the same bb without a sound or problem – approx 30,000km on that particular bb.

    • The “finicky” derailleur setup was most likely caused by this user not using new cable housing. You have one of the best new mountain bike groups going onto your bike and you used old derailleur housing to save some time? Kinda tough to do a fair review with worn parts.

  2. Quote : “On the 1×11 groups, SRAM recommends wrapping the chain around the largest cogs and the chainring (without it going through the derailleur) and pulling it together so that you have about two links (one inner, one outer) overlapping. That determines the chain length.” Well, it’s actually four links, just like the new 12 speed group – see

    • A single link is one set of inner plates and one set of outer plates. BR wrote it a bit confusingly, but from the document you referenced, Sram recommends overlapping one link for 1×12 on FS bikes, and overlapping two links for 1×12 on a hardtail. I would have thought it would be the other way around, with the FS bike having more chain in the system to account for chain growth.

  3. Kind of funny that all the weight gains of a 1x are gone in a blink: 362 grams for a cassette!

    And look at that derailleur: it is not even midway from the top monster cog and it is so close to the ground!!!! Frankly this is a stupid group, if anything the way to go was e-thirteen 9-44 cassette. More compact, same range, less money, 11 or 10 speed.

    • I’ll measure for the long term review. It does look closer, and I asked about that at the launch, but SRAM’s reps said it’s roughly the same as with non-Eagle XX1 groups. So far, I haven’t hit it on anything, even on some very aggressive, fast descending and tech riding.

  4. How does that weird looking quick link handle shifting when it is wrapped around the upper pulley at that one rare instant?

  5. I with sram and shimano would put some R&D into gearboxes instead of growing the cassette, and pulley cages to silly sizes.

  6. Gear boxes and 9t cogs have trade offs. Both add drag, the former, a lot of weight as well.

    Even 10t and 11t add some drag, it’s a bell curve.

    • Tom, all but biggest (50T) cog is one piece of steel, just like XX1. Only the 50T is alloy on this one. Check the pic and you can see that it’s pressed onto the 42, just like the 42 is pressed onto the rest of the cassette for the non-Eagle version.

  7. I just noticed the cassette has narrow-wide teeth. How does the chain always derail correctly onto the right teeth when shifting?

  8. Finally a 1x drivetrain that has the same range as my 3×9. Guess what? They are the same weight…lol

    But from constant cross chaining required from the 1x setup, these overly expensive parts wear out 4x faster. These are only good for the manufacturers not the consumers.

    • Good catch, but good understanding on the parts wearing out also! Siskel and Ebert give this a two thumbs up.

  9. Tyler, could you please measure the Q factor and post it please – or ask SRAM what will be available? SRAM still haven’t put up a number for XX1 Eagle on their website; X01 is supposed to be 164.

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