While true BB30 frames are a pretty rare thing to roll off the production line these days, there are some popular legacy models that used that format. What’s the difference you ask? A real BB30 bottom bracket shell used standalone bearings held inside the frame with a C-clip. More common now are PressFit bottom brackets, which house the bearing inside a shell cup and drastically reduce creaking and misalignment (compared to BB30, anyway).

But, if you’ve got certain Cannondale CAAD and Synapse bikes with aHollowgram crankset or the Specialized Allez, Tarmac and Venge frames with Fact and BB30 crankset, you’ve probably been searching for a solution. Now you’ve got one.

C-Bear Ceramic Bearings is offering a few options. Choose from their standard Road version for normal use, or the Cyclocross version for adverse conditions. The Cannondale models measure 73mm wide with a 42mm diameter where they press into the frame. The Specialized models are available in 68mm for Road and 73mm for MTB. Opening is 30mm to fit normal BB30 cranksets. To install, simply press them in like you would a normal PressFit bottom bracket. Retail is €169, available now.



  1. Mechanic on

    What?! No way. PF is a solution to a problem that didn’t exist. They marketed it as the elimination of components, when really proper function requires two solid, parallel surfaces for bearings to align and not shift to self-align causing creaks. BB30 was done away with for the most part because it is expensive to manufacture as the tooling to be accurate and precise enough is expensive. Why do that when you can cut frame weight and decrease costs for all involved, except the end user?
    If your BB30 creaks, you should have installed with a proper press, one bearing at a time.

    • Veganpotter on

      New bikes with BB30 bearings installed by the factory are the norm and eventually getting creeks is common. Not much you can do about that. You can pop them out of every new frame and reinstall but the tolerances can already be compromised. That said, I still think these things are a good idea. And I believe it’s smarter to have PF30 than BB30. Even installing one bearing at a time…carefully…they sometimes track sideways. If you’ve installed enough of them, you’d know it happens.

  2. DRC on

    I had all kinds of creaking issues with my 2010 S-works Tarmac and nothing Spesh suggested helped at all. When I got a 2012 frame as a warranty replacement, I had a C-bear BB put in right from the start. Haven’t heard a creak in the last 5 years.

    That being said, I’m not sure why this is big news?

  3. Tim on

    I’ve got around 2k miles on my AC mr pink pf30 (sram bb) & have yet to experience this creaking that so many say is plaguing them. Is this a steel vs carbon issue or am I just lucky.

  4. Greg on

    it’s only going to reduce creaking if they’re housed in plastic. Best (of the PF30) is the SRAM ones that have a larger bearing ID, allowing for a plastic “top hat” to put plastic between the steel bearing and the aluminum spindle. Too bad you can’t do the same with bb30, until someone makes a custom bearing 31mm ID for it.
    I see zero point in this.

    • Hmmm on

      I love my Hollowgram BB30 cranks so much I use them on my Mojo 3+, my Spark 29 and my Cannondale Flash 29…. I must admit my 2010 BB30 bearings on the Flash are starting to come out without tools now;-(,

  5. Mecanico do Paladar on

    Please help!
    How can i put that common creaking noise in my chinese Ltk BB30 frame?
    I am using an Hollogram crankset,
    I am trying to have the creaking for around 2 and a half years without success!

  6. Stendhal on

    I give a strong endorsement to cbear if you need a bottom bracket solution. The compatibility chart on their website is excellent. I purchased a bracket for a BSA 68 bike. Easy purchase process, outstanding price for a bracket with ceramic bearings, and the product has been no problemo. If it’s strong enough for Andre Greipel, it works for me!

  7. Anthony on

    I have used a few C-Bear BB’s in my various bikes – and will keep going back. They last (honestly) between 2 and 3 times as long, have excellent tolerances – so fit nice and snug and never creak. Good compatibility with all frame and crank standards. Worth the money.

  8. Robo on

    I’d also recommend C-Bear, I’ve fitted one to a 2014 Cannondale Evo. I had to space mine out to ensure no creaking but once done it’s been silent. Fitting was very easy and the customer support seems good.

  9. Michael Love on

    Specialized Shiv 2016 TT module/ Fact/SRM started to creak/click irritatingly 10,000km in. Refitting B/B and/or replacing bearings solved the problem only for a few km. PF 42-30-R on order now. Will let you all know…


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